I currently have a 2.5"-3" on my 2007 2 door. I am wanting to change out the rear DS and am leaning toward the JE Heel flanged replacement over the type that requires changing out the t-case and pinion yokes. Why? Want to keep things simple, plus I am thinking that the exsting angles are not steep enough to require the upper control arms, bowing the rear coils, etc. I run 33" tires and wheel easy.

Are there any draw backs to the flanged DS vs the yoke DS?

Current pinion angle:


Current t-case angle:


Looks to me like the rear DS pinion angle is OK (not perfect, but OK) while the t-case angle is about at its limit. Jeep is sitting flat in the garage.

Thoughts?

Thanks for any helpful comments.

 

looking at your pics, your DS angle is steep enough to put your CV boots in a constant state of pinch. as it, they will fail sooner than later. regarding your understanding of things, i should inform you that they are incorrect. ANYTIME you install a rear u-joint style double cardan drive shaft you MUST set your pinion angle to be in line with your DS and adjustable rear upper control arms is the only way to do that. as far as flange vs. yokes go, flanges work but they will reduce the length of your shaft and therefore put more of an angle at the double cardan. not as big of a deal on a rear shaft but, a yoke will allow you to have less of an angle and therefore minimize any chance of vibrations. i definitely wouldn't install a flange setup up front if i could help it.

 

Thanks for the feedback. I appreciate it.

My project is only for the rear DS right now as I can only afford one project at a time. LOL

Upon looking closer at several aftermarket DSs and more pics I do see where the yoke does allow for more length. This would then allow for better angles.

I was hoping to install the JE Reel flanged and see the angles were OK enough to use w/o resetting the pinion angle and having to mess with bowing coils. Maybe I should rethink that idea.

I see where Tom Woods offers a DS with the replacement yoke on the t-case and a flange on the rear. It is the pinion nut torque I am most concerned with getting right and not damaging the pinion crush sleeve (washer) in replacing the pinion yoke. This set up would allow that but I apparently would need to adjust the pinion angle anyway.

Tain't no bypass around doing things correctly!

How much stronger are the replacement DS compared to the stockers?

 

like i said, you'd most likely be fine with a flange replacement for the rear as you need to set your pinion angle anyway - it's the front that would be a mistake. je reel offers replacement yoke setups too if you do decide to go that route and the benefit of going with their shafts is that they come standard with made in the usa neapco u-joints - no upgrade necessary unlike you would have to do with a wood shaft.

 

old thread i got the answer years ago that i asked .but you cant delete a post here i guess