Hi all,

I've been research lifts for months now and really like the Clayton set-up.

Thing is the lowest lift that comes with is 3.5". I have a 2-dr Rubi and I can't see fitting more than 35" tires for some time (long commute on DD).

I have fitted xenons so there I reckon I'd be good with about 2" of lift.

I want to do this properly the first time and don't mind spending some $$ to get a good lift. In the much longer term (when the DD duties are over) I may switch up to 37" tires.

Is there a way of fitting the Clayton 3.5 lift and then reducing the height - perhaps by swapping out the springs or shold I just think about an alternative lift for the time being.

What I'm looking for is:

1) low COG
2) Really good articulation
3) Just enough clearance to stop rubbing but no more.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Steve

 

37's and a 3.5" would be very nice.

I'm running 3" and 37's. Its tight, but works very nice with trimming..

My point is, if you keep the 3.5" you wont have to trim as much

 

I could do that (it keeps playing at the back of my mind if I can get something that handles well on the freeway - at moderate speeds as I rarely go much above 60).

I know you have a spyntec which would enable me to get the lift and be free to adjust whatever castor is best and avoid highway vibrations from the drivechain angles.

I keep thinking about that (it was my original plan) but at some point I'm going to go Hemi and that makes me think that D60s might be a better option - that way I can still have locking hubs and get the same benefits of the spyntec (i.e. disconnect the front drivechain onroad.

So here's the question. With appropriate (C) load rated 37" tires and manual locking hubs up front (however you do it) can you get a reasonable freeway ride?

I know I'm trying to get the best of both worlds but if it's actually possible I don't mind spending the money (although I'm still struggling against the thought that 37"s are too extreme for my weekly mileage (about 200 miles)).

I don't care about gas mileage - just saftey and ride comfort.

 

i just drove to the OBX, 12 hour drive going 80 mph. It was very stable and felt great on the highway. My wife drives the highway for 1/2hr everyday for work. she drives about 50 miles a day.

performance offroad is awesome.

 

Thought they were manual hub conversions, not adj control arms?

Anyway, sounds like you're on stock rubi tires now? And you 'may' go up to 35's with the lift? And years down the road, there is a possibility of 37's? I'd say decide on your commuting tire size, get a lift for that tire, and upgrade later. (Maybe to one of the long arm upgrade kits.) Instead of buying a kit, storing the coils, and buying shorter coils for now...

 

i'm confused

 

Guessing the OP has a few threads going and got the replies mixed up?

 

I got that a bit wrong probably - I'm still in the learning and research stage.

The thought process was this. Having locking hubs (which is on the list somewhere) enables you to decouple the front drive chain and that gives you more flexibility to adjust the castor angle (which requires adjustable control arms) and gives you the best of both worlds on the freeway - a stable ride and no drivechain vibrations.

What bit did I get wrong?

Steve

 

your right, the guys quote got me messed up.

That helps with steering, even if you dont have hubs, it'll still be stable and very driveable on the highway.

 

Check post #9 in this thread:

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...hlight=spyntec

Cheers,

Steve