regear & lockers by end of month?
Hey all...I think I'll have enough money to regear by the end of July and maybe a locker. I have 3.73 now on 33s, I eventually want to go 35s so I think 4.88 is good enough right? Also, since I'm getting it regeared...I thought of adding lockers on it. Is it necessary to have both front and back? Or if I only have enough money to add one locker, should I do it on the front or back?
It seems there is a never-ending debate on which is better, 4.88s or 5.13s. 4.88s will bring your performance back to stock, and 5.13s will give you a little extra pep. I think the majority of JK owners would recommend going with 5.13s, especially if you have an automatic.
No, it is not necessary to have lockers in the front and rear diffs. A rear locker will work fine all by itself. X's and Saharas have a factory option that adds only a rear locker.
As for front vs. rear lockers... That's another debatable topic. I would put it in the rear since your rear D44 axle has stronger components than your D30 front axle. Generally a rear locker is more useful and less of a pain because it doesn't affect your driving wheels. It's really difficult to steer with a front locker engaged.
CliffNotes version:
1. Go with 5.13 gears
2. Add rear locker if desired
No, it is not necessary to have lockers in the front and rear diffs. A rear locker will work fine all by itself. X's and Saharas have a factory option that adds only a rear locker.
As for front vs. rear lockers... That's another debatable topic. I would put it in the rear since your rear D44 axle has stronger components than your D30 front axle. Generally a rear locker is more useful and less of a pain because it doesn't affect your driving wheels. It's really difficult to steer with a front locker engaged.
CliffNotes version:
1. Go with 5.13 gears
2. Add rear locker if desired
i have a detroit in the back and a trutrac up front 5.13s and 35s 6 speed
i actually wish i could get 5.38s!the trutrac is awesome up front, even off road is easy to steer and manuver. it sends the power to the wheel slipping instead of just locking them up
do it once !
i actually wish i could get 5.38s!the trutrac is awesome up front, even off road is easy to steer and manuver. it sends the power to the wheel slipping instead of just locking them up
do it once !
Hey Rogue, have you seen that the gears are on back order till I think august maybe, so If you havent ordered them I doubt you'll get them before end of the month of august. Good Luck!!
If you have auto I would go with the 5.13's
not sure how they will be if you plan on keeping the 33's till they are worn out though
If you have auto I would go with the 5.13's
Hey Rogue, have you seen that the gears are on back order till I think august maybe, so If you havent ordered them I doubt you'll get them before end of the month of august. Good Luck!!
If you have auto I would go with the 5.13's
not sure how they will be if you plan on keeping the 33's till they are worn out though
If you have auto I would go with the 5.13's
Got 5.13's put in about 3 weeks ago; I think I got the last set in the country. At any rate I recomend the 5.13's - especially if you have an auto. A stick can get by with 4.88's but I iagine you'd love it w 5.13's.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Guam - PCSing to McGuire AFB, NJ in July '09
It seems there is a never-ending debate on which is better, 4.88s or 5.13s. 4.88s will bring your performance back to stock, and 5.13s will give you a little extra pep. I think the majority of JK owners would recommend going with 5.13s, especially if you have an automatic.
No, it is not necessary to have lockers in the front and rear diffs. A rear locker will work fine all by itself. X's and Saharas have a factory option that adds only a rear locker.
As for front vs. rear lockers... That's another debatable topic. I would put it in the rear since your rear D44 axle has stronger components than your D30 front axle. Generally a rear locker is more useful and less of a pain because it doesn't affect your driving wheels. It's really difficult to steer with a front locker engaged.
CliffNotes version:
1. Go with 5.13 gears
2. Add rear locker if desired
No, it is not necessary to have lockers in the front and rear diffs. A rear locker will work fine all by itself. X's and Saharas have a factory option that adds only a rear locker.
As for front vs. rear lockers... That's another debatable topic. I would put it in the rear since your rear D44 axle has stronger components than your D30 front axle. Generally a rear locker is more useful and less of a pain because it doesn't affect your driving wheels. It's really difficult to steer with a front locker engaged.
CliffNotes version:
1. Go with 5.13 gears
2. Add rear locker if desired
Remember, I said, strictly by the numbers.
My point is, I think 4.10 would be "close to stock" if all else was equal. Since, obviously, the wheel/tire combo in a 35" size is gonna be considerably heavier than a 32" or 33" combo, I think you'd want a lower ratio. IF the 4.56's are out, then that might be the way to go. I don't think you'd want any lower than 4.88 unless you a) never put any freeway miles on it, b) have an auto tranny, or c) plan to go bigger than 35" later (or any combination of the 3).
Keep in mind this is just my calculations based sheerly on numbers. I don't have any first hand experience JK-wise, yet. I realize that most people here recommend the 4.88's for a "stock" feel and 5.13's for more low end grunt. I just think those numbers are a little overzealous. Not that that's bad now.
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Strictly by the numbers (tire size and gear ratio only, and assuming the OP had 32" tires and 3.73 gears stock) a 4.10:1 ratio would bring him back to "stock".
Remember, I said, strictly by the numbers.
My point is, I think 4.10 would be "close to stock" if all else was equal. Since, obviously, the wheel/tire combo in a 35" size is gonna be considerably heavier than a 32" or 33" combo, I think you'd want a lower ratio. IF the 4.56's are out, then that might be the way to go. I don't think you'd want any lower than 4.88 unless you a) never put any freeway miles on it, b) have an auto tranny, or c) plan to go bigger than 35" later (or any combination of the 3).
Keep in mind this is just my calculations based sheerly on numbers. I don't have any first hand experience JK-wise, yet. I realize that most people here recommend the 4.88's for a "stock" feel and 5.13's for more low end grunt. I just think those numbers are a little overzealous. Not that that's bad now.
Remember, I said, strictly by the numbers.
My point is, I think 4.10 would be "close to stock" if all else was equal. Since, obviously, the wheel/tire combo in a 35" size is gonna be considerably heavier than a 32" or 33" combo, I think you'd want a lower ratio. IF the 4.56's are out, then that might be the way to go. I don't think you'd want any lower than 4.88 unless you a) never put any freeway miles on it, b) have an auto tranny, or c) plan to go bigger than 35" later (or any combination of the 3).
Keep in mind this is just my calculations based sheerly on numbers. I don't have any first hand experience JK-wise, yet. I realize that most people here recommend the 4.88's for a "stock" feel and 5.13's for more low end grunt. I just think those numbers are a little overzealous. Not that that's bad now.
.....You will loose too much top end
.......Your gas mileage will suffer....


SO I went with 5.13's anyway and LOVE IT!!!!

I have a 6 speed and it is NOT TOO MUCH GEAR!!! I can easily hit 90+ on the interstate and have more low end pull than Chrysler ever intended!!

O and if you have a RUBI with 4:1 transfer case.....Well it's JUST WICKED in 4LO
Yea, ordered 513s for my auto prob bout 6-7 weeks ago..Was told mid June, then end of June today was told end of July...
WTF.
Question for u guys runnin th 513s; how will the jeep perform at 70 mph? Im a little concerned that it may rev higher than it should at these speeds?
WTF. Question for u guys runnin th 513s; how will the jeep perform at 70 mph? Im a little concerned that it may rev higher than it should at these speeds?


