relation between tire width and axle stress.
Thread Starter
JK Super Freak
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,299
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From: Santa Clara, CA
relation between tire width and axle stress.
How much more stress does a 14.5 inch (toyo 37x14.5R15-LT) wide tire going to place on an axle compared to a 12.5inch wide tire?
Thanks
.... also im curious why most people with the 37 toys go with the narrower 13.5 version and not the 14.5. is there any reason for this, or is it just preference for the larger rim sieze?
Thanks
.... also im curious why most people with the 37 toys go with the narrower 13.5 version and not the 14.5. is there any reason for this, or is it just preference for the larger rim sieze?
Last edited by jtjk; Jun 14, 2011 at 06:34 PM.
JK Freak
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 621
Likes: 2
From: Seattle, WA
How much more stress does a 14.5 inch (toyo 37x14.5R15-LT) wide tire going to place on an axle compared to a 12.5inch wide tire?
Thanks
.... also im curious why most people with the 37 toys go with the narrower 13.5 version and not the 14.5. is there any reason for this, or is it just preference for the larger rim sieze?
Thanks
.... also im curious why most people with the 37 toys go with the narrower 13.5 version and not the 14.5. is there any reason for this, or is it just preference for the larger rim sieze?
One: If its a factory axle, 44 or 30 (Same tubes, knuckles, c's, and bearings) a 37" is pushing both the housing and the internals pretty close to the breaking point, 13.5 or 14.5. A light foot and some common sense will stretch the life out considerably, but eventually a venture into the aftermarket will be necessary for strength and reliability.
Two: Wheel offset places different amounts of pressure onto the housing, and all components attatched to it. The less backspacing you have, the farther away from the bearing it is, giving it more leverage and ultimately shortening the life of the housing, bearing, etc.. With the narrower 37" you dont have to lose as much back spacing to prevent rubbing, so the narrower tire would be less stressful in that sense.
Three: The narrower tire will perform better in all conditions, period. 13.5 is wide, but the wider you go, the more the tire will tend to push whatever material (snow, mud, water) it is you find yourself playing in. You want a tire that digs down and finds traction, especially if its tall, i.e. a 37". People will argue that a wider tire is better in the rocks. I counter, and say that 13.5" is plenty, for any tire 39" and down. It will also be easier to turn on the factory steering, even if only minutely.
Four: While i'm on the subject, your steering is a serious concern, especially if you have a Rubicon, or aftermarket lockers. I wont get into it too heavily, but the factory setup isnt the greatest in the strength department. A 37" will only shorten the life of the steering. Probably start with a "cunk" in the gearbox, then move down into your tie-rod or tie rod ends.
In the end, a Jeep was not built to handle 37's from the factory. You can make them work, but you will spend more time in the aftermarket looking for strength upgrades. I'm not discouraging the 37's, just make sure you do it right the first time.
I'm actually in the middle of the gulf of alaska right now, so internet and time to get on the internet is extremely limited. If you have any questions shoot me a PM, i'll be happy to give some advice
Last edited by Blakspire; Jun 14, 2011 at 07:12 PM.
Thread Starter
JK Super Freak
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,299
Likes: 0
From: Santa Clara, CA
Thanks for taking the time to write such a complete response. that answered all of my questions!
There are a few things to take into consideration here.
One: If its a factory axle, 44 or 30 (Same tubes, knuckles, c's, and bearings) a 37" is pushing both the housing and the internals pretty close to the breaking point, 13.5 or 14.5. A light foot and some common sense will stretch the life out considerably, but eventually a venture into the aftermarket will be necessary for strength and reliability.
Two: Wheel offset places different amounts of pressure onto the housing, and all components attatched to it. The less backspacing you have, the farther away from the bearing it is, giving it more leverage and ultimately shortening the life of the housing, bearing, etc.. With the narrower 37" you dont have to lose as much back spacing to prevent rubbing, so the narrower tire would be less stressful in that sense.
Three: The narrower tire will perform better in all conditions, period. 13.5 is wide, but the wider you go, the more the tire will tend to push whatever material (snow, mud, water) it is you find yourself playing in. You want a tire that digs down and finds traction, especially if its tall, i.e. a 37". People will argue that a wider tire is better in the rocks. I counter, and say that 13.5" is plenty, for any tire 39" and down. It will also be easier to turn on the factory steering, even if only minutely.
Four: While i'm on the subject, your steering is a serious concern, especially if you have a Rubicon, or aftermarket lockers. I wont get into it too heavily, but the factory setup isnt the greatest in the strength department. A 37" will only shorten the life of the steering. Probably start with a "cunk" in the gearbox, then move down into your tie-rod or tie rod ends.
In the end, a Jeep was not built to handle 37's from the factory. You can make them work, but you will spend more time in the aftermarket looking for strength upgrades. I'm not discouraging the 37's, just make sure you do it right the first time.
One: If its a factory axle, 44 or 30 (Same tubes, knuckles, c's, and bearings) a 37" is pushing both the housing and the internals pretty close to the breaking point, 13.5 or 14.5. A light foot and some common sense will stretch the life out considerably, but eventually a venture into the aftermarket will be necessary for strength and reliability.
Two: Wheel offset places different amounts of pressure onto the housing, and all components attatched to it. The less backspacing you have, the farther away from the bearing it is, giving it more leverage and ultimately shortening the life of the housing, bearing, etc.. With the narrower 37" you dont have to lose as much back spacing to prevent rubbing, so the narrower tire would be less stressful in that sense.
Three: The narrower tire will perform better in all conditions, period. 13.5 is wide, but the wider you go, the more the tire will tend to push whatever material (snow, mud, water) it is you find yourself playing in. You want a tire that digs down and finds traction, especially if its tall, i.e. a 37". People will argue that a wider tire is better in the rocks. I counter, and say that 13.5" is plenty, for any tire 39" and down. It will also be easier to turn on the factory steering, even if only minutely.
Four: While i'm on the subject, your steering is a serious concern, especially if you have a Rubicon, or aftermarket lockers. I wont get into it too heavily, but the factory setup isnt the greatest in the strength department. A 37" will only shorten the life of the steering. Probably start with a "cunk" in the gearbox, then move down into your tie-rod or tie rod ends.
In the end, a Jeep was not built to handle 37's from the factory. You can make them work, but you will spend more time in the aftermarket looking for strength upgrades. I'm not discouraging the 37's, just make sure you do it right the first time.