I paid a little over 900. but they did an excellent job and followed up after 500 miles to make sure everything was just right.

do a google for "billavista ansell" he has a very detailed and informative pdf on doing gears correctly.

 

That about right, give or take. It may be as high as 75 now. I've been outta the dealer thing for a while. Yeah, everything's cheaper down here because the south is still poor, brother. There was never a reconstruction.

 

Dang...Any guys like you in Orange County, CA area?

 

I have changed out the ring and pinion before. it only becomes easy after you have done it and after you understand it. It is a bit of an art form mixed with presicion. And just because you have the same carrier, it does not mean you will have the same pinion depth. Look at the numbers on your new pinion and compare it to your old one. Make adjustments accordingly. You will also need a dial indicator to check your backlash. I got mine for $50.

Remember, it takes over 150 PSI to crush your sleve. I have a 150 psi air compressor and it is not enough. I have to bring my neighbors compressor to my house to get that sucker to crush.

Your pre load is key... make sure you get that right, or you will break stuff and more than likely it will happen on the trail.

One last thought. Before putting your new bearing on your pinion, grind out some of the inside diamber of your bearing so you can slide the bearing on and off. This will save you considerable time when working on your pinion depth.

 

how about someone just sell them? Seems everyone is reccomending them? it doesn't have to be a bearing even, just a aluminum insert machined to the same specs.

 

To do it right you need some Prussian Blue and a good Hydraulic Press. YouTube has some good videos you can check out. I wouldn't use an impact to crush the sleeve though. Use a big breaker bar and have good torque wrench as well.

 

Absolutely correct. I've had to rework many gear jobs because people hammer down the crush sleeve with an impact. A large breaker bar and torque wrench is the way. The torque wrench should be used to measure the preload of the bearing though, not the torque of the nut. 8 LB FT is generally a good across the board figure to use. Any more preload than that just seems a little tight and any less is just not enough. I use an old beam type torque wrench for that, because they are much more accurate at such low measurements. Also, many people have the misconception that the crush sleeve somehow affects pinion gear depth. It has no affect whatsoever. Lastly, I would NOT recommend honing the NEW bearing to a slip on fit as someone suggested in an earlier post. The old bearing needs to be used for that. The bearings are a press fit for a reason, and that should not be undone with the bearing that will be used permanently.

 

Just so I got it right, hone the old bearing for a slip on fit, get the shims right, then replace the old with the pressed on new bearing? Will the new bearing effect the pinion depth vs the old bearing, or not enough to make a difference?

 

I'm not trying to be a dick by any means, but if you are on here asking how difficult it is to install the gears, then you should not even attempt it. It really does require a fair amount of experience as well as knowledge of how the differential works. If I were you I would look for a reputable shop and let let perform the install. Good Luck!

 

thanks for the reply...if i make it up to Georgia some day i'll make an appt.