Ring and Pinion Install
#31
Yes, that is correct. The difference between the old VS the new bearing is literally next to nothing. I have to concur with shortbus, though. If you've never done it before, it is quite challenging. I'm certainly not taking anything away from you. Hell, I did it for the first time a LONG time ago all by myself. If this stupid redneck can figure it out, I'm sure anybody can. It would be the SMART man though, who had a back up plan, just in case.
#32
JK Freak
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Des Moines, IA
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I called Burnville near Minneapolis today. Seems they are the onliy shop nearby with experience. I have all of the parts and they quoted $700 labor. I thought that was a little high, but I want it to be done right.
#33
JK Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta
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Do not use an impact to crush your sleeve. You will ruin it. Use a breaker bar
and a torque wrench.
and a torque wrench.
I have changed out the ring and pinion before. it only becomes easy after you have done it and after you understand it. It is a bit of an art form mixed with presicion. And just because you have the same carrier, it does not mean you will have the same pinion depth. Look at the numbers on your new pinion and compare it to your old one. Make adjustments accordingly. You will also need a dial indicator to check your backlash. I got mine for $50.
Remember, it takes over 150 PSI to crush your sleve. I have a 150 psi air compressor and it is not enough. I have to bring my neighbors compressor to my house to get that sucker to crush.
Your pre load is key... make sure you get that right, or you will break stuff and more than likely it will happen on the trail.
One last thought. Before putting your new bearing on your pinion, grind out some of the inside diamber of your bearing so you can slide the bearing on and off. This will save you considerable time when working on your pinion depth.
Remember, it takes over 150 PSI to crush your sleve. I have a 150 psi air compressor and it is not enough. I have to bring my neighbors compressor to my house to get that sucker to crush.
Your pre load is key... make sure you get that right, or you will break stuff and more than likely it will happen on the trail.
One last thought. Before putting your new bearing on your pinion, grind out some of the inside diamber of your bearing so you can slide the bearing on and off. This will save you considerable time when working on your pinion depth.
#34
I don't get it
everyone makes this job out to be the most difficult thing in the world to do.
It's really not hard, I just did 5.13's in my Rubicon and the only issue was Superior gear built the gear wrong. (I will never buy from them again,but that's a different story)
With the superior gearset I used all the factory shims (reverse the position of the carrier shims) and got a perfect setup.
And I must disagree with taking a grinder to the pinon bearing. Don't do it, if the bearing race spins on the pinon shaft it will destroy the bearing and fill the diff with metal shavings.
Don't be lazy doing a gear swap, that's asking for trouble.
It's really not hard, I just did 5.13's in my Rubicon and the only issue was Superior gear built the gear wrong. (I will never buy from them again,but that's a different story)
With the superior gearset I used all the factory shims (reverse the position of the carrier shims) and got a perfect setup.
And I must disagree with taking a grinder to the pinon bearing. Don't do it, if the bearing race spins on the pinon shaft it will destroy the bearing and fill the diff with metal shavings.
Don't be lazy doing a gear swap, that's asking for trouble.
#36
That's right. It's a perfectly acceptable practice. But, not with a "grinder" as mentioned above. With a HONE, as I mentioned earlier. A decent small bore cylinder hone on a cordless drill will work just fine. You can rent one at most auto parts stores. If you have access to a parts washer, just make sure to keep the hone well lubed while doing the job, and it'll be just fine. You don't want to go too far with the bearing, so check it often.
#38
I called Burnville near Minneapolis today. Seems they are the onliy shop nearby with experience. I have all of the parts and they quoted $700 labor. I thought that was a little high, but I want it to be done right.
That is a very fair price.
David