Bubba, how are you determining whether your MAP sensors are 2 bar or 3 bar? The one that originally came with my RIPP kit had the part number scratched off. My new one has a part number, but when I looked it up, seemed like MOPAR had switched the bar rating and retained the same part number.

 

Before you begin, buy a new lower EGR gasket. When I took mine off, it was torn and half of it was stuck to the block. It's a $2 part, but getting back in there twice sucks.

Intake sensor - Use a small screwdriver and get some wd-40 to lube it up. Then pull straight out. It's easier if the car is warm so do this before starting.

The hardest part of the install for me was the passenger side rear plenum bolt. You have to squeeze your socket inbetween the fuel lines and the top edge of the firewall, almost impossible. I did it by using a 1/4" 10mm, mated to a 1/4 to 3/8" adapter socket. That way it gave me just enough room to get the bolt off.

Red injector clips - these need to be pushed/pulled up. Use a small screwdriver to get it started, then just use your hands.

Wear rubber gloves when swapping the injectors. By the time you get to the injectors, your hands will be cut to shit. Gas + open wounds = PAIN

When trying to get your SC mounted, remove the sensor and unplug the end at the center of the fan. You can now push the entire sensor out of the way. DO NOT TIGHTEN the any of the mounting bolts. Once you get the two primary bolts into the block, tilt the SC back towards the firewall and carefully slip the sensor back into place.

When doing the piping it's pretty straight forward, but keep an eye on the pipe with the BPV. It needs to be angled very carefully so that it doesnt interfere with the drive belts. I found that once I bolted the grill back on, it pushed the piping back about 1/2" and right into the belt. After some more fiddling, pushing, and luck, I was able to get it to fit with about 1" between the piping and the belt. Best way to figure out how it's supposed to go is to install the silencer hose before mounting the last pipe.

Since your JK is about the same heights as mine, I highly recommend you buy two step ladders. I got a double pack from costco for $30 and I had one on each side of the Jeep. I used my ARB bumper bar as a seat too.


Good luck!

 

Thanks for the tips. I just subscribed to this thread so I don't loose them. Probably going to print it out just to have it handy during the install.

When you say intake sensor are you refering to the one on the housing that leads into the throttle body. I played hell getting that out when I installed the Airaid CAI. I will use DW-40 this time.

I will now have a Viper Throttle Body sitting in the garage. Good thing I kept the factor throttle body.

I have a few pair of Ansell Hyflex gloves around the house. I'll make sure to wear them.

As far as the piping is concerned. I had planned on installing a trans cooler at the same time since I will have everything tore apart. Just have to find some space. Been given a few suggestions from people with an SC so I have an idea. I will keep an eye out for clearance issues.

I do appreciate the tips.

I work at a large Caterpillar facility and I am turing wrenches everyday so I am comfortably with doing this but I have a lot more room working on CAT equipment.

 

Hey you two, this is a thread for whining and sniveling about our RIPP SC issues, not installation chit chat.

Below are some RIPP installation threads that I found useful:

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...r-installation

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...77#post2004977

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...r-Installation

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And to stay on topic - received the new 3.3 tune today. Am about to install, and take the JK for a spin. Hopefully I'll have a grin on my face as big as the little fella in this emoticon --->>

 

I have (had) the B&M tranny cooler but I couldnt get it all to fit behind the stock grill.

I'm in the middle of swapping the crappy crimp fitting with aeroquip fittings and a cylindrical cooler that I'll be mounting near the lower bar of my ARB bumper.

The swap of the transmission hoses is harder than any part of the RIPP install. Really.

 

So attempting to unscramble the above:

3.2 tune and old 3 bar MAP = Bad (hesitation, weird transmission behavior)

3.3 tune and old 3 bar MAP = Bad (hard start, misfires)

3.3 tune and new 2 bar MAP = Not Good as baro is off (any other undesirable effects?)

3.2 tune and new 2 bar MAP = Good but only driven a few miles (any further updates?)

Have you discussed the above with RIPP? Is that what they were expecting? I'm not sure I understand the purpose of the new 3.3 tune given your findings/impressions bubba.

 

Where you getting your other cooler from?

 

I thought you already tried 3.3 and got the low baro (or did you mean you had a newer version of 3.2 and you loaded an older version of 3.2 after seeing the low baro, and it's the older version of 3.2 that seems to be working fairly well now)? I think I just confused myself.

 

I was able to fit the B&M and intercooler with a bit of trimming of the backside of the grill and making my own intercooler mounts.

 

I'm beginning to lean in that direction too. Still somewhat premature, but I'm running the new 3.3 tune with a new MAP sensor and power seems a little more stable. Need more seat time before I can make any further declarations (positive or negative). May take a road trip to do some wheeling this weekend (if we don't get rained out) - will let folks know what I experience.

Thanks for all the troubleshooting hints bubba - will probably take a look at some of the components you suggest to see how they look after seven months of suboptimal supercharger performance (not sure how much the latter would negatively impact life of the parts you mentioned).