Hey yall,
I am leaning towards the Rock Krawler 3.5" (though I would love some more pix/feedback on it) and was wondering if i would need to get new shocks as well. I curently have the 0-3" shocks from skyjacker but their next shocks are 4+ so I am a bit confused... If I need shocks I think I might go with the OME hd as the Mid-arm flex at 1099 is already on the top end of my immediate budget... thx in advance

 

I have a 3.5" Rock Krawler X factor Mid Arm system with a 1" body lift. My jeep has 37" tires and clears everything except for the rear pinch seam on the back side of the wheel well when at full flex.

 

I don't know too much about that lift. But if I was you, according to the many lift threads on this forum you will get more than 3.5" of lift, and therefore I would get shocks that can compensate a 4" lift and I would get spring retainers to keep those long coils from popping out in case you get too much flex. That's my .2 cents.

 

Hit up YingYang, hes a member here and he has that lift.

 

yingyang had one of the first kits i saw lol

 

Even if you only got the nominal 3.5" (f4" front & 3" rear) of the Rock Krawler lift kit, your current shocks would not be long enough. Usually those kits provide an extra 0.5-1.5" of lift depending on the weight of your Jeep. The OMEs are good shocks if they make one long enough.

 

so it sounds like i will need new shocks even 1100 is pushing it so i guess i will look at the hd ome kit with shocks and track bars from northridge... how needed are the control arms on this kit?

 

You could get the RockKrawler 3.5 entry level and get some shocks and then just put the control arms on when you get the cash. I know thats not helping you make a decision, but its another thing to think about.

 

RockKrawler 3.5 X factor plus long arm here. Stick with the RK. Get whatever you can afford, with great shocks like the Bilstein 5100 (about $75. Ea). Since RK is upgradeable, you can add components whenever you can afford it, or feel the need. Until you get all the way to stretched longarms and coilovers. You may stop at your initial buy, but shocks are so important, don't cheap out.

 

I know it seems counter intuitive, but the length of the shocks really has little do with the amount of lift.

Its really about the amount of wheel travel.

The best way to see what sized shocks you'll need is to disconnect the bottoms of the current shocks, and jack the truck up, and let both axles go to full droop.

The axle drooping level, vs drooping with one tire stuffed, etc....requires MORE shock length...so use the level axle for the MAXIMUM droop measurement.

If the current shocks are your limiting factor, the lower shock eyes will not reach the drooped lower shock mounts....and the DIFFERENCE they'd need to add, to reach, plus maybe an inch of buffer zone, is the amount of extra length you want.

If the lower shock eyes are hanging lower than the drooped shock mounts, well, they are long enough to not be your limiting factor...and they can stay.

Exceptions can be if the valving is no longer adequate to help control the added forces from the higher COG, or added armor, or heavier tires/stiffer spring rates, etc...in which case the length can be OK, but the valving may need to be stiffened up, etc.

Hope that helps!