Got my RK 2.5 Max travel installed but i have only kinda snugged the jam nuts, doing it on the ground i cannot seem to get a wrench on the Jam-Nuts enough to tighten them. will this be ok to drive 50 to 60 miles until i can drop it off at a Offroad shop to get it aligned and ask them to tighten the Jam nuts for me.

but i am scared and do not want to hurt the hardware

 

That's a long way for something to go wrong. I would not recommend that. Be safe. Remove and tighten.

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X2 on this one!

 

From the RK install guide:

IMPORTANCE OF JAM NUTS
This is a note about jam nuts and the consumer's responsibility. The installer is the person or
persons initially responsible for the proper setup of the suspension system and/or components and
the initial tightening of the jam nuts. The jam nuts not only hold the orientation of the joint it is on
but it is the single component that puts the necessary pre-load on the joints threads. The consumer
or vehicle owner is the person or persons responsible for maintaining the jam nuts tightness.
Failure to do so will result in the rapid deterioration of the threads in the control arm and will
impose a "cause for concern" for the occupants of the vehicle. Failure to comply with the warnings
headed in the directions regarding the amount of threads showing past the jam nut will also result
in the same "cause for concern" for the occupants of the vehicle. All of the above items are the
responsibility of the vehicle owner and or installer. If a threaded section of a component is bad it
will show itself defective immediately. Threads that fail over time are due to improper maintenance
of jam nuts and can be proven very easily. Thread sections and jam nuts not properly maintained
or setup, are not covered under warranty. This is the end user and installer's responsibility.


TORQUE VALUES FOR HARDWARE AND JAM NUTS

• All 14mm and 9/16” bolts are torqued to 90-100 ft-lbs.
• All 12mm and 1⁄2” bolts are torqued to 75-80 ft-lbs.
• All 10mm and 3/8 bolts are torqued to 30-35 ft-lbs.
• All 7/8” Jam Nuts are to be torqued 200-220 ft-lbs. Up to 1⁄2” of threads showing past the jam nut is safe for
  final adjustment. These specifications are critical for the overall longevity of the threaded section.
• All 1” Jam Nuts are to be torqued to 250-300 ft-lbs. GET YOUR BIG BOY PANTS ON! Up to 5/8” of
  threads showing past the jam nut is safe for final adjustment. These specifications are critical for the overall
  longevity of the threaded section.

 

How does one go about getting the correct torque on the jam nuts?

 

If it helps I don't think you can over torque them. I have what I assume is about 200lbs on mine.

 

i did crawl under the jeep this morning and stuck a wrench on there and twisted as much as a i could before driving it, i will see if the offroad shop can tighten them all the way for me, they may have to adjust them when they do the alignment anyways.

 

I agree. I Loctite'd the threads that go into the bars and under the nut and put as much arm as I could on them. I had the bars in a vice with a buddy on one big wrench and me on another. Rock Krawler always says, "We like things tight!"

 

No they don't. You set the length during install. The proper castor is set at that time to match the RK coils. The only thing ... MAYBE they will need to do is center the wheel via the rag link collar. This, assuming you set the track bar to its perfect length centering the axle under the jeep under load. Easy way to check this is to have the tires off , front axle on jack stands taking the weight of jeep. Run 2 lug nuts down on each side to make sure rotors are flat against hubs , measure from back side top of rotor (making sure wheels are as straight as possible AND assuming axle "C" sections are not bent) to a common point on the frame each side. your measurements should match.

I have done a few max travel systems and on each I maybe had to dial out 1-1.25 turns on the adjusting collar without any issues. Again your control arm lengths should be good providing the measurements in the beginning of the instructions were made.

 

The specs that RK gives you is not set in stone. The specs are a close starting point. Once you get the rig on an alingment rack you will see that you are able to make small final adjustments and dial in your castor perfectly. If RK did not want a final check during the alignment then they would make fixed arms and not adjustable.

You absolutely want to make sure that the person or shop doing the alignment actually takes the time to make the final adjustment.

As far as the jam nuts go we recommend using lock tite on the jam nut after the final adjustment is made and tightening until you can't tighten anymore. Some of the jam nuts are very difficult to get to while the arm is installed so it may require removal of the arm in order to do so.