Rough Country BB vs. Teraflex BB
I am researching the same thing at the moment... seems VERY similar... less the brake line brackets....
I haven't determined the value/need for these brackets.... but a full flex condition ripping out a brake line would not be a good thing.

I haven't determined the value/need for these brackets.... but a full flex condition ripping out a brake line would not be a good thing.

i went through the same thing price vs. value that being said the RC kits i seen were only offering the spacers and the shock extensions. the TF kits come with that plus bump stops and swaybar links. now i was also told that i didnt need the bump stops or swaybar links BUT everyone that i talked to said there good to have so i bought the TF kit but i guess it all boils down to your budget
hope this helps
hope this helps
Just my opinion but my TeraFlex BB is coming off. I can't get rid of the death wobble in the front end when I drive over 55 mph. I've put more money into this BB than I should have. From an adjustable trackbar, two alignments from two different shops, steering stabilizer... It's just not worth it anymore. I know there are hundreds of people on here that have had great luck with these budget boosts but after all is said and done I've spent about 950 dollars. I'm just gonna buy a coil lift instead now... Don't know of any other option rather than just removing the lift and putting it back to stock.
Like I said just my opinion
Like I said just my opinion
Party, what do you run your tire pressures at? Sometimes if you run them to high on the road, that will cause the death wobble too. I was having this problem with my dodge ram that I had a leveling kit on, replaced the shocks, sway bar links, any loose tierod ends, added a steering box brace and an adjustable track bar, and I still got the death wobble. Lowered my front tire pressure about 15psi, and that fixed it. I even found a TSB for the 2nd gen. Ram's saying that if deathwobble is experienced, and no worn out parts are found in the front end, to set the front tire press. to a specified amount.
The thing to remember about any lift kit for a specific amount of lift, like a Budget boost, etc...is that they all do the same thing...they raise your ride height.
When your ride height is raised, it shifts the axles over a bit, the front one goes to one side, and the rear one goes to the other side....because the track bars attach the axle to the frame, and when the frame is lifted (By a spacer, a coil or an airbag, etc...) the axle becomes further from the frame...
....but the track bar is the same length, so, the axle is pulled over towards the track bar's frame side, so it can still reach, etc.
It doesn't matter who's lift you have...that's what raising the frame does....period.
If the kit includes an adjustable track bar, or a new bracket that re-positions the track bar so it can reach w/o pulling the axle over...then that problem goes away.
Same with the steering linkages...raising the frame pulls the front axle towards the steering link, etc.
OK - Shocks - all the shocks do is damp motion, so you don't pogo after bumps, lean too far/recover quickly on avoidance maneuvers, etc....
...if the shocks are longer, your tires can droop further down, and stay on the ground more easily, where they can add stability, traction, and other good things...
...assuming something ELSE is not keeping the tire from drooping down...like too short a brake line, or ABS wiring, diff breathers, etc...
Some shocks are generally better than others, monotube shocks are better than twin tube shocks, in that they don't fade as easily....Bilsteins for example are great, and have a lifetime warranty.
Some shocks are built to a "Price Point", so the specs might look good as far as design, etc...but the actual construction was done cheaply, so the eyes fall off, bushings fail, or whatever, as the money was saved somewhere, etc.
The valving of the shocks is the difference between the rig floating along, and crashing from bump to bump, pogo-ing, or wallowing, etc. Digressive valving is the best typically, as it allows the shock to react to the actual speed of the incoming piston, and catch it like a catcher absorbs a fast ball in his mitt....and then re-extend the piston quickly enough to follow the next dip, etc.
Death wobble, etc...has little to do with which lift you get...it has more to do with if the alignment people got the linkage rods and track bar level, and the tie rod ends/ball joints are tight or not, etc.
Heck, what some people call death wobble is just a vibration, either a drive train harmonic, or an imbalanced tire, etc.
The RC kit is more basic, it lifts the jeep, shifts the axles, etc...and they say its fine.
The TF kit is more complete, and allows compensation for axles shift, etc...and they say THAT's fine.
Some people do not notice a small shift, some people do...iff you are one of thepeople that can tell the difference, get the TF kit...if not, the RC will probably make you happy...and save a few bucks.

Anyway - I hope that helps a bit.
When your ride height is raised, it shifts the axles over a bit, the front one goes to one side, and the rear one goes to the other side....because the track bars attach the axle to the frame, and when the frame is lifted (By a spacer, a coil or an airbag, etc...) the axle becomes further from the frame...
....but the track bar is the same length, so, the axle is pulled over towards the track bar's frame side, so it can still reach, etc.
It doesn't matter who's lift you have...that's what raising the frame does....period.
If the kit includes an adjustable track bar, or a new bracket that re-positions the track bar so it can reach w/o pulling the axle over...then that problem goes away.
Same with the steering linkages...raising the frame pulls the front axle towards the steering link, etc.
OK - Shocks - all the shocks do is damp motion, so you don't pogo after bumps, lean too far/recover quickly on avoidance maneuvers, etc....
...if the shocks are longer, your tires can droop further down, and stay on the ground more easily, where they can add stability, traction, and other good things...
...assuming something ELSE is not keeping the tire from drooping down...like too short a brake line, or ABS wiring, diff breathers, etc...
Some shocks are generally better than others, monotube shocks are better than twin tube shocks, in that they don't fade as easily....Bilsteins for example are great, and have a lifetime warranty.
Some shocks are built to a "Price Point", so the specs might look good as far as design, etc...but the actual construction was done cheaply, so the eyes fall off, bushings fail, or whatever, as the money was saved somewhere, etc.
The valving of the shocks is the difference between the rig floating along, and crashing from bump to bump, pogo-ing, or wallowing, etc. Digressive valving is the best typically, as it allows the shock to react to the actual speed of the incoming piston, and catch it like a catcher absorbs a fast ball in his mitt....and then re-extend the piston quickly enough to follow the next dip, etc.
Death wobble, etc...has little to do with which lift you get...it has more to do with if the alignment people got the linkage rods and track bar level, and the tie rod ends/ball joints are tight or not, etc.
Heck, what some people call death wobble is just a vibration, either a drive train harmonic, or an imbalanced tire, etc.
The RC kit is more basic, it lifts the jeep, shifts the axles, etc...and they say its fine.
The TF kit is more complete, and allows compensation for axles shift, etc...and they say THAT's fine.
Some people do not notice a small shift, some people do...iff you are one of thepeople that can tell the difference, get the TF kit...if not, the RC will probably make you happy...and save a few bucks.

Anyway - I hope that helps a bit.
My RC 2,5" BB with 2.2 shocks(w/ built in bump stops), works good enough for me... video: http://video.yahoo.com/watch/2942131/8415412
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Like I said hudreds of people heve the TF BB and it works great no problems. Every jeep is different. That is just my unfortunate first time experience with a BB and it went a little off for me. Just my opinion and experience with my lift... 
Oh, and afoulk they are still the factory tires until I get this wobble resolved to do more mods so I'm running on the factory tire pressure specs. This wobble is uncontrollable at times and I have to slam on my brakes to avoid losing control above 55.

Oh, and afoulk they are still the factory tires until I get this wobble resolved to do more mods so I'm running on the factory tire pressure specs. This wobble is uncontrollable at times and I have to slam on my brakes to avoid losing control above 55.
Last edited by Party; Aug 6, 2008 at 06:29 PM.
I ran the TF BB.
It has sturdier rear shock extension mounts. 3 point instead of the 2 point with RC.
RC is a copy of the TF lift but with less parts and is not as complete.
TF has EVERYTHING you need. You will need to buy extra stuff with the RC.
TF if you plan on running the lift for a long time. RC if you are on a tight budget and dont plan to wheel much due to the brake lines and sway bars being tight.
Just my .02
It has sturdier rear shock extension mounts. 3 point instead of the 2 point with RC.
RC is a copy of the TF lift but with less parts and is not as complete.
TF has EVERYTHING you need. You will need to buy extra stuff with the RC.
TF if you plan on running the lift for a long time. RC if you are on a tight budget and dont plan to wheel much due to the brake lines and sway bars being tight.
Just my .02


