Rubi E-Locker DIED
Thread Starter
JK Super Freak
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,279
Likes: 0
From: Grand Junction, CO
I think it's just a weak design. The shop has seen other similar failures and replaced the whole e-locker. But if I do that it may fail again. I wouldn't mind replacing the actuator if it could be acquired from a carrier that died for cheap so I'd have lockers until I went with 60's.
JK Jedi
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 7,215
Likes: 10
From: Georgia
All it is is just an electro magnet, right? Most any competent electric motor repair facility should be able to repair and or rewind it.
A few months back I started a thread on the Rubi locker and if it was any good and repairable. The answers were more positive than I thought was the case.
At any rate my rear locker has ceased locking; I got the flashing light and no indication of it locking by driving. This morning the cover was pulled off and we can easily lock it by using two fingers. The ring on the locker actuator is normally loose. If the switch is engaged it pushes out a bit and becomes snug but won't effect lockup. If we help it a little it will lock and as soon as we stop assisting it in unlocks. It is getting 12V. It looks like the electrics have deteriorated and it no longer has the force to overcome its internal release spring.
I refuse to spend the money on another factory locker and I'd rather not spend the money on a 60 right now. And ARB replacements are not yet available. My question is does anybody have a source for the electric locker actuator part? The dealer doesn't sell them. Does anybody have a Rubi elocker that was replaced do to some other problem whereby the electric actuator is still working. If so I'd like to buy it.
I am talking to the dealer about the possibility of them covering it but haven't heard yet.
At any rate my rear locker has ceased locking; I got the flashing light and no indication of it locking by driving. This morning the cover was pulled off and we can easily lock it by using two fingers. The ring on the locker actuator is normally loose. If the switch is engaged it pushes out a bit and becomes snug but won't effect lockup. If we help it a little it will lock and as soon as we stop assisting it in unlocks. It is getting 12V. It looks like the electrics have deteriorated and it no longer has the force to overcome its internal release spring.
I refuse to spend the money on another factory locker and I'd rather not spend the money on a 60 right now. And ARB replacements are not yet available. My question is does anybody have a source for the electric locker actuator part? The dealer doesn't sell them. Does anybody have a Rubi elocker that was replaced do to some other problem whereby the electric actuator is still working. If so I'd like to buy it.
I am talking to the dealer about the possibility of them covering it but haven't heard yet.
JK Freak
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 943
Likes: 2
From: Hangin in the sunshine state....staging forum..
No, it's not a plunger issue. If you put it in 4Lo, turn the motor off, leave the ignition on and hit the locker switch you can usually hear it engage. Now we can't hear the back but can hear the front. And if you lock it, drive and turn you can tell whether it's locked or not. If the plunger is bad the actuator can lock but the dash won't indicate that it's locked. This is a failed actuator. With the cover off you can see that it is not working and using a probe test that it has 12V to it. We can easily move the actuator by hand and get lock up so we know it is not the locking plates that won't engage.
I think it's just a weak design. The shop has seen other similar failures and replaced the whole e-locker. But if I do that it may fail again. I wouldn't mind replacing the actuator if it could be acquired from a carrier that died for cheap so I'd have lockers until I went with 60's.
I think it's just a weak design. The shop has seen other similar failures and replaced the whole e-locker. But if I do that it may fail again. I wouldn't mind replacing the actuator if it could be acquired from a carrier that died for cheap so I'd have lockers until I went with 60's.
Thread Starter
JK Super Freak
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,279
Likes: 0
From: Grand Junction, CO
It's a separate part from the carrier, is loosly on and comes off if you pull the bearing. If the part was available or repairable it would be easy to replace by pulling the carrrier.
JK Freak
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 845
Likes: 0
From: RSM, Ca
I had mine go with 8k miles or so. Dealer covered under warranty as they should, but replaced entire rear end. You should not let them get away without replacing it. I did not read if you have already had gears done, if so then it will be an uphill battle with the dealer. My dealer said they have had a bunch of these go out in the first 1k-3k miles not a great design, but I have about 17k on mine now and it is still holding up. You may want to call Don-A-Vee in Placentia, Ca and ask for Moe, he is a great guy and he may have one of these laying around that he can part out to you, it is a long shot, but worth a try, they have taken good care of me.
JK Freak
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 505
Likes: 0
From: Rancho Cucamonga, Ca
Just an idea. A long time ago I put a rubi front axle in my X and was trying to figure out if I needed a relay or not for the locker so I measured the current draw from the locker and it was about 3-1/2 amps. Maybe you can check the current and if is underdrawing then I would say the coil is on its way out.
Thread Starter
JK Super Freak
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,279
Likes: 0
From: Grand Junction, CO
Dlr will fix under warranty!!!!
Just out of curiosity I'll try to measure the amp draw and see what it is. It would be nice to have a baseline for the future. Is 3 1/2 the normal draw?
Well, some good news. I picked it up from the 4WD shop this morning, took it over to the dealer and talked to the service manager. I told him that it had been regeared, what we had discovered (could lock it by hand) and that it was the actuator that was bad. I was surprised when he said that he knew these were causing problems and that they would fix it under warranty by replacing the whole locker! So I have an appt on the 23rd to get it done.
It seems to me that they need to do some work on the actuator.
Well, some good news. I picked it up from the 4WD shop this morning, took it over to the dealer and talked to the service manager. I told him that it had been regeared, what we had discovered (could lock it by hand) and that it was the actuator that was bad. I was surprised when he said that he knew these were causing problems and that they would fix it under warranty by replacing the whole locker! So I have an appt on the 23rd to get it done.
It seems to me that they need to do some work on the actuator.