Well, my rear Rubi e-locker actuator has been slowly going for some time. Been getting pretty sticky for a while, and got progressively worse while here in Moab. It finally released last night on it's own somehow. Pressed my luck and ran Moab Rim today, and getting through Devil's Crack and Z-Turn with only a front locker was wishful thinking. Had to use both lockers, and now the rear is stuck stuck stuck. I slid the actuator ring over using a screwdriver through the diff cover fill hole, but it's still locked. Short on time to research, but starting to look and throwing out a flyer to see if anyone has an idea how to jar that sucker loose before 15+ how trip home Friday. I've no further need for the locker right now while here, and plan on replacing the actuator when home, but really don't want to drive home locked up.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

 

I'd be surprised if you make it home locked up. And even if you do, you're likely to spend a lot more money repairing your rear axle than if you take it to a mechanic right now. You're in Moab. Not a much better small town to have problems with Jeep axle in. Before you take it to a mechanic, you might try driving the Jeep backwards in a few figure eights. That may release the locker. If you decide to take it to a mechanic, friend of mine who lives in Moab recommends South Town Auto, 435-210-1896. Says to ask for Joe, Jared or Jim. And also says to avoid Arches Repair.

 

Thanks Mark. Just got back from Arches NP and I'm gonna get the cover off for a better look. I tend to think even though I can see the ring through the fill hole moving over, that it's not moving completely all the way around where I can't see. Going to remove the cover, clean everything up, and play around with it. Hopefully I can jar it loose. If not, I'll call the mechanic you've suggested above.

 

Check with Dixie Off Road (south of town) or Moab Motorsports. They should have some experience with those diffs. The Rubi lockers are ...um....less than good.

 

Got that sucker unlocked. Drained, took cover off and cleaned up. I was thinking the actuator ring might not have been fully slid over like it should have been all the way round, but it was. It just wasn't pulling the dog clutch. Messed with it a good bit with buddy triggering the locker occasionally. Finally, it randomly worked one time to disengage. The actuator ring still didn't slide all the way over, but it pulled the dog clutch over with it. Boom, unlocked. Phew.

Appreciate the suggestions for mechanics here. Glad it didn't come to that.

Y, I don't disagree. I know they're really "good enough" for stock rubi's, but not really intended to handle the stress of 37+ tires and aggressive wheelin', but is what it is. My rear axle was used, and the guy I bought it from was moving to a 14b and I know he wheeled it heavy, and I know I have not been gentle on it. Kinda surprised it's made it so long. I'll likely just replace the actuator on it and move on.

 

Actuator is available as a spare part now. Worth looking into. All in all the JK Rubi lockers are pretty good units. Very few reports of them grenading, etc. even with 37s.

Early ones had an issue with wear that was cured with a .010" D60 shim. The sticking issue comes along now and again and there are cures from as simple as replacing the sensor to replacing the actuator assembly to just adding the old limited slip friction modifier to the gear lube.

If it isn't changed regularly the locker sensors can get fouled by the metal in the gear lube. You might give yours a look if you pull the gear carrier.

 

Y, now that I'm back home, my plan is to pull things apart. Fortunately, it's not a DD, so I can have some down time. Will pull it out, clean it up better than I could in Moab. I highly suspect it's the wave spring in the locker more than the magnet at this moment. I plan to pull the bearing off on that side. I'll need to do that regardless if replacing the magnet, so I'll evaluate the spring then. Ronjenx advised it takes ~6lbs of force to press on the dog clutch to engage it, and releasing should allow it to disengage.

In thinking about the sensor getting fouled, it seems that shouldn't affect it disengaging as much as engaging. The sensor is not holding it to the left, nor should it be restricting it at all from popping back to the right once power is cut to the magnet. Also, when I moved the actuator ring to the right (in unlocked position), I still had a bear of a time getting the dog clutch to disengage.....which again leads me to that dang spring....ggrrrrrrr.

I'll try to follow up here when I know more.

**I will add, I've always used synthetic gear oil with additive up till now. I did regear about 22 months ago. Gear oil was changed at 500 mile checkup, and ~15k miles after that.