Ok, final I get started on my 2008 Wrangler to switch the axles. The new Axles (Rubicon) have a electric locker for the front and rear. I try to get a OE switch from the Wrecking yard, but there dint have it. And it looks like there are CAN Bus operated. My question is, can I just power them with a standard switch, or a possible relay? The wire is a very small gauge, so I don't think there need a lot of power or even a relay. But I can do this easy if it is recommended.
Can I adapt the CAN Bus function with the FLASH tool and getting the OE switch?


Any recommendation is appreciated.

 

You can wire them to any simple switch. You simply need to throw 12v down to em to actuate them. You don't want that factory wiring and buttons anyhow as they are just a headache. I fire lockers right from my Spod regardless any crummy computer telling me I need to be in 4Lo, disconnected, and with the rear locked so that I can turn on the front lockers. Nope, I will fire whichever one I want at will. If you get nervous you might accidentally turn one on when not meaning to, you can buy safety switch version of a toggle.

 

Suggested wiring. This will not allow the use of that stock switch a it a switch you use must stay in the on position to work. Will also indicate lock if you use the in diff switch circuit like I show. Good luck

 

Thank you, that all I need for the locker activation. Electric is not a problem for me, just wont to make sure that the magnet coil is not one like we have in the Shock absorber or Overdrive. Where you activate and pull with 12 Volt and than hold with 7-9 Volt.

 

I have run this way with both Rubi E-lockers and an Eaton E-locker for coming up on 8 years now. No issues outside of one of the rubi-locker wave springs crapping out on me which lead to it being harder and harder to get unlocked.....till it just didn't want to do it on its own. That kinda sucked.

 

That switch is a computer control and activates a couple of solenoids in the rubicon wire harness to allow 12v to the locker. If you don't have the rubicon wire harness it will not work even with a flashed canbus. Just do a simple 12v switch for each axle and this will allow you to run front independant or both with a simple flip of the switch. Also lets you run lockers in high if need be.

 

Thanks, I am in the process to make my wiring harness and will see how it works.

 

Thanks, I am in the process to make my wiring harness and will see how it works.

 

Did you find a a replacement wave spring for this problem? I have the same issue but unable to find the wave spring or measurements for the spring.

 

Nope. I went back and forth with Ronjenx about this as he's the only one I ever really saw tear one of these apart in his locker study. I do not believe that is replaceable. It was terribly frustrating cuz I would pull it out and it would work perfectly fine on the bench. I would clean it up, reinstall and button things back up and dammit if it wouldn't work. I did that a couple times with the same dang result.

The real salt in the wound, especially if you have upgraded to chromoly shafts, is the only 32-spline option for a replacement is the same dang rubi e-locker that just crapped out on you. Moving to anything else will require new 35-spline shafts (that I'm aware of, but that was a good bit ago now that I was looking).

I was able to source a different rubi locker from a friend who had one sitting around and I popped that in there for the time. I eventually swapped to a full float rear D60.

Unless TheDirtman has a suggestion, the only thing I could offer is pull that carrier and clean it best you can (try to get it cleaned out inside with some brake cleaner), pop it back and hope for the best. Dirtman has probably seen more issues with these lockers and might have a better idea. I only have the one first-hand experience with mine.