Installed some Rubi axles in my Sport and wired the lockers directly to my sPod. I cut the harnesses off of the factory wiring harness thingymadoo and they work just fine.

I bought a couple of Oznium 12v LEDs to use as locker indicator lights so I'd know for sure if the lockers were engaged or disengaged. Is the output voltage from the locker 12v? I wired it up to the harness and the LED is not lighting up when the locker is activated!

Am I missing something?

 

Not sure what you mean by "output voltage from the locker". There is no voltage output.

Can you be more specific regarding how you wired the led to the locker?

 

I just realized I shoulda posted this in electrical... my bad...

On the Rubicon axles there are two plugs, one for power from the 12v source (in my case the source is the sPod) and the other is for the indicator light. Usually that indicator is routed back through the computer to activate the dash lights on the Rubicon, but since mine is a Sport I'm bypassing the computer and wiring it straight to an LED. I've read of people doing this but I'm just not sure if I'm missing something.

 

Did you wire 12 volts to the switch on one side, then wire from the other side through the led, then to ground?

 

Nope, I just wired the led to the positive and negative wires coming outta the indicator light harness

 

That's the problem. There is no power coming from the switch inside the differential.
Wire it as outlined in my question. I'll be it will work.

12 volts to one pin on the switch in the differential.
A wire from the other pin on the switch to one pin on the led.
A wire from the other pin on the led to ground.
Make sure the source of the 12 volts has a fuse appropriate to the wire size.

 

I think the two wires go to a dry contact switch for indication that the locker is engaged. I didn't look up the wiring diagram, but as Ron mentioned above, 12+ to one wire and the other wire to the indicating lamp, then the other side of the indicating lamp to ground should work. You could test the locker indicating switch with a multi-meter, it should change from infinity to zero ohms when the locker engages.

Edit: It may be better to reverse what side of the circuit gets 12+. Pick an already fused 12+ source inside the cab, wire 12+ to the lamp, other side of the lamp to one side of the locker indication contact, the other side of the locker indication contact goes to ground.

An advantage of the above is that if the wires to the locker indication switch get chafed and go to ground, no fuse will blow, and the worst that would happen is that the indication lamp would stay on.

 

The light will work as desired either way.
Isn't it common practice to have the switch between the + source and the load?

 

With the indication switch on the negative side of the lamp, any wires chafing and grounding on the indicator switch side of the circuit won't blow a fuse, grounding would at worst cause the indicator lamp to say on continuously. That sounded like a better failure mode to me, given that wires outside the cab are more prone to trouble.

I was adding the reason to previous post as you were writing, you're too fast Ron!

 

Ok I think I get what you're saying... for some reason I was thinking that once the Rubi locker engaged it sent out a 12v signal... but from what I gather it's merely a switch and I still need to run power to the LED...

Thanks guys! I will give this a shot and try not to blow anything up!