Sahara broken axle.. change to Rubi front?
I find it interesting how a some have posted on here that the stealership will not honor the warranty because of signs of off road use. To me, this is false advertising on Jeeps part. I know my Jeep and most all others have a trail rated badge on the drivers side and in the owners manual tells you how to work the Jeep off-road. Heck even when the new Wrangler first came out all the commercials were of it off-road (i.e. not on pavement).
I find it interesting how a some have posted on here that the stealership will not honor the warranty because of signs of off road use. To me, this is false advertising on Jeeps part. I know my Jeep and most all others have a trail rated badge on the drivers side and in the owners manual tells you how to work the Jeep off-road. Heck even when the new Wrangler first came out all the commercials were of it off-road (i.e. not on pavement).
So it looks like:
http://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/jee...ly-p-5640.html at $1480
and two (front and back) http://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/yuk...on-p-2827.html at $126 each plus a switch and shipping costs ($215 I think). Does that sound right?
That's the bad news. The good news is that in order to keep the costs down, you could swap out the 3.73s in the rear for 4.10s. In fact you'll likely be able to pick up a set up of used gears from a JKer going from 4.10s to 4.88s or higher. I've seen them going on ebay for $50-$150. Add some shims and you could get by for less than $500.
GL
I think there is good sense to what you're saying numbers-wise. The only thing I would add is the subjective nature of the gearing issue. For example, IMO the 4.10's and 32's on the JK are adequate, I don't think I would be all that content with 35's and my current 4.10's, at least with an auto.
The other factor regarding this is the added weight/rolling resistence of larger tires, although this seems to be another issue of debate from all I have read.
The other factor regarding this is the added weight/rolling resistence of larger tires, although this seems to be another issue of debate from all I have read.
...The good news is that in order to keep the costs down, you could swap out the 3.73s in the rear for 4.10s. In fact you'll likely be able to pick up a set up of used gears from a JKer going from 4.10s to 4.88s or higher. I've seen them going on ebay for $50-$150. Add some shims and you could get by for less than $500.
GL
GL
I was thinking the 5.13 would be better anyway since i'll end up with a 4.5" lift, 35s and lots of weight from the skid plates and 12000 HD winch.
So the plan is to get the D44 with new gearing front and back 5.13 delivered for $2500. Now I need to find a tech with the skill and tools to install it. Friends in the Jeep club said they could do it but we dont have a press and its tricky to calibrate loads without the right gauges.
So the plan is to get the D44 with new gearing front and back 5.13 delivered for $2500. Now I need to find a tech with the skill and tools to install it. Friends in the Jeep club said they could do it but we dont have a press and its tricky to calibrate loads without the right gauges.
I thought that the JK D30 and D44 used the same outer axels and ujoint size? I see plenty of people on here with busted D44 ujoints. You will get a larger ring/pion going to the 44 but I am not sure that this swap will fix the ujoint issue?
The 44 has larger inner shafts and larger u-joints. Tubes and knuckles are the same. The u-joints still have the tendency to lose the clips unless modified for full-sircle clips or tack welded.




