Shock Selection - Limiting Factors for Selection Process
I'm running a bone stock Unlimted X and a wife having strokes and brain seizures...so its been just sitting there for the most part while I go to Drs and Hospitals/work nights/weekends t make up for the missed time, etc.
So, I have done Nothing at all to the X.
My TJ was able to ramp closer to 1200, and I have an Xterra I never RTI's that I offroad too, etc...
So, I have done Nothing at all to the X.
My TJ was able to ramp closer to 1200, and I have an Xterra I never RTI's that I offroad too, etc...
This really isn't about lift. Its about shocks, or whatever else will limit travel (like limit straps).
In TEEJ's "shock RTI post it seems you need about 15 inch compressed 26 inch extended shocks in the front, and 15 inch compressed 27 inch extended shocks in the rear to possibly hit the 1000 RTI mark.
When you add these shocks you will need:
Front and rear ASB links.
Coils that don't fall out. Add lift here as you see fit.
Brake line relocation (or lines) front and rear.
ABS sensor wiring relocation front and rear.
E-Brake cable bracket thingy.
I suggest that a few other things may need to be addressed:
The control arm bushings will be maxed out and may limit axle tilt at TEEJs proposed axle angles. New control arms all the way around may be needed to hit the 1000 mark.
The proposed angles which I cannot currently check may cause inner fender to tire clearance issues with the axle tilted that much. Offset may not fix the issue because the tire may then hit the outside edge. Be careful here.
With a minimal lift the track bar may be ok from an axle centering point of view. The rubber bushing was not intended to be twisted that much so one with a fancy joint may help bushing/joint life.
It seems we are working up a plan that might lead to a minimal lift, lower COG, stock bumpstop Jeep that can approach 1000 on an RTI. Assuming overall clearance is not your issue, you could have a very capable rig with minimal lift and reasonable sized tires.
I have seen several lift kits that come with shocks that start at compressed lengths longer than 15 inches, and extended lengths over 27 inches. I have to wonder if this is the best choice for many users.
In TEEJ's "shock RTI post it seems you need about 15 inch compressed 26 inch extended shocks in the front, and 15 inch compressed 27 inch extended shocks in the rear to possibly hit the 1000 RTI mark.
When you add these shocks you will need:
Front and rear ASB links.
Coils that don't fall out. Add lift here as you see fit.
Brake line relocation (or lines) front and rear.
ABS sensor wiring relocation front and rear.
E-Brake cable bracket thingy.
I suggest that a few other things may need to be addressed:
The control arm bushings will be maxed out and may limit axle tilt at TEEJs proposed axle angles. New control arms all the way around may be needed to hit the 1000 mark.
The proposed angles which I cannot currently check may cause inner fender to tire clearance issues with the axle tilted that much. Offset may not fix the issue because the tire may then hit the outside edge. Be careful here.
With a minimal lift the track bar may be ok from an axle centering point of view. The rubber bushing was not intended to be twisted that much so one with a fancy joint may help bushing/joint life.
It seems we are working up a plan that might lead to a minimal lift, lower COG, stock bumpstop Jeep that can approach 1000 on an RTI. Assuming overall clearance is not your issue, you could have a very capable rig with minimal lift and reasonable sized tires.
I have seen several lift kits that come with shocks that start at compressed lengths longer than 15 inches, and extended lengths over 27 inches. I have to wonder if this is the best choice for many users.
Yeah - a KEY factor will be what the REST of the JK is doing while the front axle is at that 40 degree angle.
The frame will HAVE to tilt to the down hill side to relieve some of it of course....and, if it does tilt to the downhill side...the ramp side rear tire will need enough droop to stay on the ground as it goes further over, etc.
The non-ramp side rear tire will be heavily weighted, as it bears the opposite corner of the ramped tire, etc.
The frame will HAVE to tilt to the down hill side to relieve some of it of course....and, if it does tilt to the downhill side...the ramp side rear tire will need enough droop to stay on the ground as it goes further over, etc.
The non-ramp side rear tire will be heavily weighted, as it bears the opposite corner of the ramped tire, etc.
This is such a great thread, packed with real info, that I've decided to summarize some of the points found.
With this information, it will at least be theoretically possible to design a low COG lift with enough articulation to ramp 1,000 on an RTI ramp...and have great articulation off road, without too much lift/associated off camber problems.
So far - we can summarize the following limiting factors that MUST be addressed to allow full droop for the first 27" of shock length.
(This is what's limits droop, in order of occurrance, as you droop)
FRONT END:
1) Stock shocks are too short, need 15 - 27" travel range.
2) Anti-Sway Bar, but - Even Disco'd, the Sway Links get in the way.
3) ABS WIRES and Brake Lines.
4) Passenger Side - UCA hits frame bracket
5) Drivers side - Front Drive Shaft Hits skid plate.
_________________
REAR END:
1) Stock Shocks are too short, need 15 - 27" travel range.
2) E-Brake cable, Sway links, and ABS Wires and Brake Lines.
____________________
Some Solutions:
FRONT END:
1) Install 15-27" travel range shocks.
2) Secure/relocate disco'd sway liinks to avoid them flipping into the way of the drooping suspension.
3) Lengthen/create slack by moving mount points for ABS wires and brake lines.
REAR END:
1) Install 15 - 27" travel range shocks.
2) Install longer anti-sway links.
3) Lengthen/create slack by moving mount points for E-brake cable, ABS wires and brake lines.
_________________________________
To pass this point of droop, new arms with more joint rotation would be required, and perhaps clearancing the skid plate where the front drive shaft would hit, and the passenger side frame bracket/UCA hits.
__________________________________
Note that the above preserves the stock shock's compression limit...so up to 33's would clear w/o a lift/hitting on full compression.
A 1" BL would provide an extra inch of stuffage room for tire hit, so 35's would then fit.
___________________________________
If larger than 35's are planned......as BL's for the JK seem to be limited an inch.....you'd need to add a 1" bumpstop extension after the BL to fit 37's, etc.
With the bumpstop extension, you could for example go to a 16-27" shock..but would have lost an inch of stuffage/wheel travel, etc.
_____________________________________
The above measures could of course be combined with ANY lift, to provide increased ground learance, approach/departure/break over angles, etc... and other advantage besides articulation alone.
____________________________________
Hope this helps people plan their build-ups.
With this information, it will at least be theoretically possible to design a low COG lift with enough articulation to ramp 1,000 on an RTI ramp...and have great articulation off road, without too much lift/associated off camber problems.
So far - we can summarize the following limiting factors that MUST be addressed to allow full droop for the first 27" of shock length.
(This is what's limits droop, in order of occurrance, as you droop)
FRONT END:
1) Stock shocks are too short, need 15 - 27" travel range.
2) Anti-Sway Bar, but - Even Disco'd, the Sway Links get in the way.
3) ABS WIRES and Brake Lines.
4) Passenger Side - UCA hits frame bracket
5) Drivers side - Front Drive Shaft Hits skid plate.
_________________
REAR END:
1) Stock Shocks are too short, need 15 - 27" travel range.
2) E-Brake cable, Sway links, and ABS Wires and Brake Lines.
____________________
Some Solutions:
FRONT END:
1) Install 15-27" travel range shocks.
2) Secure/relocate disco'd sway liinks to avoid them flipping into the way of the drooping suspension.
3) Lengthen/create slack by moving mount points for ABS wires and brake lines.
REAR END:
1) Install 15 - 27" travel range shocks.
2) Install longer anti-sway links.
3) Lengthen/create slack by moving mount points for E-brake cable, ABS wires and brake lines.
_________________________________
To pass this point of droop, new arms with more joint rotation would be required, and perhaps clearancing the skid plate where the front drive shaft would hit, and the passenger side frame bracket/UCA hits.
__________________________________
Note that the above preserves the stock shock's compression limit...so up to 33's would clear w/o a lift/hitting on full compression.
A 1" BL would provide an extra inch of stuffage room for tire hit, so 35's would then fit.
___________________________________
If larger than 35's are planned......as BL's for the JK seem to be limited an inch.....you'd need to add a 1" bumpstop extension after the BL to fit 37's, etc.
With the bumpstop extension, you could for example go to a 16-27" shock..but would have lost an inch of stuffage/wheel travel, etc.
_____________________________________
The above measures could of course be combined with ANY lift, to provide increased ground learance, approach/departure/break over angles, etc... and other advantage besides articulation alone.
____________________________________
Hope this helps people plan their build-ups.
Thank you, and you are welcome. You can actually thank TEEJ, I would have never gotten around to most of this if he hadn't asked me (someone) to go out in their garage and get some numbers. The odd part is that TEEJ and I both are running almost stock rigs. TEEJ has an illness in the family, and I have "pocketbook" problems. I'll take my issues over health issues any day. Frankly I have had a lot of fun with this. I just wish there was a very simple way to lay it out for all the guys buying kits and/or having shops do their work. The real value in this thread is that the answers to about 70% of the new posted questions about lift "X" are already here. It is just hard to correlate.
With the longer shock how can you secure the coil so it does not drop out? Can you damage your coils by securing them and subjecting them to extreme flex?
I notice that RE 4.5" long arm specs a front shock 16.3/27.6; rear shock 17.6/28. If I put those shocks on my short arm RE superflex, RE said the coils would drop out. I did not ask them how to get around that (obviosly buy longer coils). I have seen somewhere an anchor for the bottom of the coil, do you have to worry about the top?
Guys, Thanks for an awesome thread.
I notice that RE 4.5" long arm specs a front shock 16.3/27.6; rear shock 17.6/28. If I put those shocks on my short arm RE superflex, RE said the coils would drop out. I did not ask them how to get around that (obviosly buy longer coils). I have seen somewhere an anchor for the bottom of the coil, do you have to worry about the top?
Guys, Thanks for an awesome thread.
2 dr 2010 JK 6spd 35" KM2S AT 15 PSI
LIFT RoughCountry 3.25
shocks upgrade to 6" Skyjacker Nitros
Jeep ramped a 1063 on RTI ramp
I out ramped a ProComp long arm 2011 4dr with 37 ProComps. RTI was 1020 ,and was beaten by a 2007 2door RoughCountry 4 inch lift 36 inch Irocs with modified upper front shock mounts he got 1100
all jeeps were disconnected
LIFT RoughCountry 3.25
shocks upgrade to 6" Skyjacker Nitros
Jeep ramped a 1063 on RTI ramp
I out ramped a ProComp long arm 2011 4dr with 37 ProComps. RTI was 1020 ,and was beaten by a 2007 2door RoughCountry 4 inch lift 36 inch Irocs with modified upper front shock mounts he got 1100
all jeeps were disconnected


