With the gas tank skid:
my tank overflows every time I fill it. The tank is bent in in a few places because the skid, well, got bent into it, and they say that's why the whole evap/valve system I don't really understand doesn't work.
After 2 visits to the Jeep garage, they decided to relace the tank under warranty, but I need to drop the skid and hammer it out so the new tank will fit!!
I know some of the skid mounts double as tank mounts, suspension mounts, etc., and was wondering if anybody had advice for dropping the skid?? I've always just jumped into things, and figured it out as I went....

 

bump....
I'm doing this tomorrow!

 

I bashed the heck out of my gas tank skid as well, I think I'll be getting a gas tank skid in addition to the oil pan skid, I'm also hoping going to a 4" lift and 35" tires will also help a lot, right now I'm running lower than stock with the bumpers and rock rails I run.

 

Cool....if this thread lives:
Dropped the tank skid today, no problems.
Tank skid IS what holds the gas tank up, so I made sure it had <1/4 tank fuel. Crawled under it, loosened all bolts (18mm, crescent if the heads are chewed up) and bear hugged it until I could run a short bungie cord under the aft end of the tank, around shaft/frame, to keep it supported while the skid was out.
Cleaned it (caked mud), used my in-rig BFH (3lb sledge), got closer to it's original shape, went back on pretty easy.
Took long, hot, soapy shower after.....Dirty job, but hey... sorry, no pics...too dark

 

Hi... I have a bit of an "un-ethical" approach to my rock-rails and skid pans. I wanted to keep the original body height (I'm an older, short SOB!). I just let SARA (my JK) drag across things. I seldom get high-centered and it does make for some "interesting sounds" when I out on the trails. Needless to say...the vast majority of the guys on here are relatively young and enjoy the higher (more trail friendly) suspensions and they do look cooler as well! Have fun with your mods and your JK... Mike

 

So I picked up a copy of the new fall edition of 4x4 garage (JK edition) and in the mag it say River Raiders skid system offersmore ground clearance than the stockskid plates

 

Try reading the whole thread!

 

The gas tank skids are pretty weak even if you do just moderate offroading. I took mine off and hammered it out recently. I have some pics but I dont think I can post them due to my low post count. Here is how I removed mine: I ran the gas tank down as low as possible. Drove my rear wheels up on blocks so the remaining gas would run to the front of the tank. I loosened all gas tank skid plate bolts and completely removed my xfer case skid (I have a 6 speed manual). I bought a 4ft piece of wood, 5/8" x 5/8", from the dowel section at the local hardware store. There are multiple holes in the bottom of the skid plate for drainage. One of those holes towards the rear of the skid plate is large enough to insert the piece of wood. I cut the wood to the proper length, put one end in the hole and the other end on the floor. Support the center of the skid plate with a floor jack, remove all bolts, and gently lower the skid plate using the floor jack The wood will keep the rear of the gas tank in place while the skid plate slides down over it. (Other people have used a 2x4 to prop up the gas tank by the filler tube on the side) The front of the gas tank will be supported by the cross member. With the skid down and gas tank still supported by the wood, use a piece of rope and tie one end to the crossmember near the rear of the gas tank and the other end to your control arm to support the rear end of the gas tank. You can now remove the wood and the skid plate, pound out your dents, clean, and reinstall. Using the floor jack raise the skid plate back up on to the gas tank leaving just enough room to pull out your rope. Remove the rope, raise skid plate the rest of the way, and install your bolts. I added the Rock Hard skid plate. Fits right over the original skid, very easy install and only had to drill 2 extra holes to mount. Really nice skid plate. I doubt I will ever have to worry about dents any more and gave up almost nothing in clearance.

 

LOL!! don't kid yourself, just because our white jk is big doesn't mean we don't beat the bottom of it - we just beat it with bigger rocks and i should add, much harder. i should also note that our orange jeep is smaller and we beat it just as much but with less damage.

this is FAR from true. if you were to actually take the time and remove your gas tank skid plate, you would see that there are supports that run across the bottom that elevate your fuel cell. the dents you have will reduce this space but i highly doubt that they would push in far enough to make much of a difference at all. my skids on both jk's are beat to all hell and i'm quite sure that i can put in just as much gas as before.

more than a 1/4"? i would like to see them prove this.

as was stated back on post #5 of this thread:

unless the skids in question also replace the factory transmission crossmember, the 1.5" of ground clearance is wishful thinking at best and a gross exaggeration at worst. fact of the matter is, ALL the aftermarket skids that i know of all attach to this cross member and that is ultimately the lowest point along the center of the JK. likewise, the two lowest factory skids (auto tranny skid and t-case skid) only sit 1/2" lower than the transmission cross member - THIS IS A FACT and if you don't believe me, all you need to do is go out and measure this for yourself.

 

first off, the amount of posts you have will not effect your ability to post pics here. second, just because your skidplate gets dented doesn't mean that it's weak or that it's not doing its job.