BombJock

I've had mine for about 9 months now. Fairly straight forward install. Take your time with the adjustment and you should be fine. I've wheeled mine in TN, MO, and PA with no issues or rattles. You will add 18" or so (sorry out of town so can't measure) hanging off the back. If you park in a garage you may want measure before you buy.

Pros: heavy duty, integrated fuel can carrier, integrated spot light mounting locations, good looks, good powder coat wrinkle finish, comes with brake light relocation and high lift mount.

Cons: heavy, no tubes for running wires for brake light or spots (have to route externally or drill your own holes in tubes)

For me it came down to this or a poison spyder. For the price point and additional features that come with it, I think this one is hard to beat.

I've had many compliments on the road and trail with this set up.

Good luck.

-BJ

BombJock

Forgot to add I did a write up on here somewhere. On my phone so lack the technical ability to look up and link right now.

kmrtnsn

Ours has been on a year now. We've run some fairly decent local trails, a three day trip on the Mojave Road, and a two week long wheeling trip through UT, CO, and AZ, during which we also had full jerry cans on the bumper. So far, the only issue I have had was installer caused; after returning from CO I noticed the bumper had some "lean" to it. A quick check revealed the mount bolts were loose. I put my tow bar on the receiver, put the floor jack under it and retorqued the bolts; problem solved. I don't have enough air pressure in my compressor to run an impact wrench but will be replacing it soon and will hammer them tighter then. We are also running a 33" fairly heavy tire on the gate without issue. There is a good install post on the forum here somewhere in which the installer talks about removing the thick powder coating on gate pivot points prior to install. Make sure you read and and heed those instruction as it makes the install sooooo much easier.

BADDANDY

I haven't heard of anyone else having this problem, but the clearance to body was so close to mine that the Jeep's body would hit the bumper on bumps causing an obnoxious thump. It would hit either the driver side or the license plate bracket. No attempts of adjustment would give clearance at both points. So yesterday I trimmed a 1/4" off of the entire top of the bumper. Problem is now solved.
Mine has never had a latching nor rattle issue. It also came with an extra 1" rubber bumper to which I drilled and mounted it in a hole in the fuel can carrier for the tailgate to contact when both it and the tire carrier are open to prevent metal to metal contact.

kmrtnsn

I've managed to break the license plate bracket in the same manner. How did you trim the top edge on yours?

BADDANDY

I loosened all the bolts which allowed the bumper to drop back and down an inch, then cut a 1/4" strip off the top forward edge with an angle grinder with cutoff wheel(4). The last 1/2" by the flares I cut from the underside. Yes, I used alot of tape and cardboard to protect the paint and seals. I had the tailgate open for the rear face, and removed the pin cover for the right side. I used a jack with 2x4 under the tire to raise back into position for bolt tightening.

If you are up to it, you could probably skip all of this and just remove the bumper in it's entirety and put a 1/4" spacer between the bumper and frame at the 4 rear bolts. I didn't go this route as I had no one to help me and I've removed it once before and didn't feel like disassembling everything again. AAANNNDDD, I would've really been pissed if that hadn't given me the clearance after all that work.

The route I chose allowed me to periodically jack the bumper back up to position to ensure I was cutting enough. I also only had a hair's clearance most of the tailgate width, so that was another reason I cut as that was too uncomfortably close for me.