So I decided to rewire my lockers...
11-07-2008, 08:07 AM
#11
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I got the switches from Over the River.
otrattw.com
Really nice guy. Note, there are a couple of different switch designs that you can use, not all are wired the same.
Here is the wiring schematic I made. I completely bypassed everything in the jeep. Now they are stand alone switches and the Jeep is basically no longer connected to the diffs.
You will also notice that I only had to run a total for 4 wires through the firewall to get it all done, then 2 to the front and 2 to the rear.
otrattw.com
Really nice guy. Note, there are a couple of different switch designs that you can use, not all are wired the same.
Here is the wiring schematic I made. I completely bypassed everything in the jeep. Now they are stand alone switches and the Jeep is basically no longer connected to the diffs.
You will also notice that I only had to run a total for 4 wires through the firewall to get it all done, then 2 to the front and 2 to the rear.
11-07-2008, 09:00 AM
#12
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can you control the front and the rear locker separately in the rubicon edition? Cause the wiring kit I saw online uses one switch for both lockers... No? So how did you separate them into two switches?
Looks AMAZING man. Great job.
Looks AMAZING man. Great job.
11-07-2008, 03:13 PM
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, I'm sure it would have found a home in the JK Write-Ups section.Great job, I'd have mine down lower since I have elec windows but like how they light up, etc.
...
11-07-2008, 07:28 PM
#20
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The lockers draw less than 20 amps when they are both tuned on, I am assuming this since they share a 20 amp fuse
Yes, this bypasses the factory system completely. I can control the front and rear seperatly.
The wiring at the locker is very strait forward:
The locker requires a power and a ground to engage. Ground 1 side and send power to the other from the switch. The contact that the factory uses to confirm engagement is just a connection switch, it does not do anything but complete a separate circuit when the locker engages. So, I grounded one side and sent the other side to the ground of the 2nd switch light.
Yes, this bypasses the factory system completely. I can control the front and rear seperatly.
The wiring at the locker is very strait forward:
The locker requires a power and a ground to engage. Ground 1 side and send power to the other from the switch. The contact that the factory uses to confirm engagement is just a connection switch, it does not do anything but complete a separate circuit when the locker engages. So, I grounded one side and sent the other side to the ground of the 2nd switch light.