Something's got to give. Which will it be?
11-06-2013, 05:46 PM
#1
JK Freak
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Something's got to give. Which will it be?
Ok, so you've upgraded to super strong Chromalloy (or is that Kryptonite) axles. So now...
What is the weakest link? What would you rather break other than an axle on the trail? Carrier? Gears? What is your "fuse" to protect you from being totally disabled on the trail and saddled with expensive repair bills? Differential carrier and gear replacement is not as cheap or easy as popping out an axle and sliding a new one in, now is it?
Twist off a front axle and you have a RWD. Twist off a rear axle and you have a FWD. Still can limp home? Of course you might need minor surgery to remove broken parts, but nothing fancy.
What is the weakest link? What would you rather break other than an axle on the trail? Carrier? Gears? What is your "fuse" to protect you from being totally disabled on the trail and saddled with expensive repair bills? Differential carrier and gear replacement is not as cheap or easy as popping out an axle and sliding a new one in, now is it?
Twist off a front axle and you have a RWD. Twist off a rear axle and you have a FWD. Still can limp home? Of course you might need minor surgery to remove broken parts, but nothing fancy.
11-06-2013, 06:36 PM
#2
JK Junkie
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The u-joint is still a weak link, the caps can walk out or if your yokes are strong enough then you can break the actual nubs off of the cross. Keep some u-joints in the tool box and you can make it off the trail without much effort.
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11-06-2013, 07:25 PM
#3
The u-joint should always be the goal for a fuse.
It is the easiest thing to repair on the trail and as KARLS stated, easy to keep a couple of spares and extra u-bolts in the tool box.
It is the easiest thing to repair on the trail and as KARLS stated, easy to keep a couple of spares and extra u-bolts in the tool box.
11-13-2013, 10:40 PM
#7
JK Enthusiast
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I'm still learning but an axle swap sounds like a DIY repair vs. taking it in to get the gears replaced (if you have limited mechanic skills like me!).
This post came at the perfect time since I'm considering going up to 37s and was ready to drop over $1100 on RCV axles! Saved me some serious coin I can put toward something else!
This post came at the perfect time since I'm considering going up to 37s and was ready to drop over $1100 on RCV axles! Saved me some serious coin I can put toward something else!
Last edited by flomingo; 11-13-2013 at 10:48 PM.
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11-14-2013, 04:19 AM
#8
JK Junkie
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Keep in mind that with the heavy tires and factory shafts that you may twist/ shear the splines, so certainly be ready for that situation. Factory axle shafts are cheap and plentiful.....until you need once, then they seem to be scarce.
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11-14-2013, 05:13 PM
#9
Ok I'm about to purchase 37" MTR's w Kevlar for my 09 X JKU .... Upfront I have the PR 44 with dynatrac ball joints, Reid knuckles, RCV's and 5.13 gears...... After I add my 37's what's the weak point up front? Or can I wheel it pretty hard? THEN for the rear also 5.13 gears(of course) and I was thinking Yukon chromoly axle shafts in the rear when my ARB air locker goes in. Are you guys saying I shouldn't add the chromoly shafts while the air locker is going in? Are my gears the weak spot if I add the chromoly shafts back there??? What do spare U joints cost? Thanks
11-14-2013, 05:36 PM
#10
JK Junkie
Ok I'm about to purchase 37" MTR's w Kevlar for my 09 X JKU .... Upfront I have the PR 44 with dynatrac ball joints, Reid knuckles, RCV's and 5.13 gears...... After I add my 37's what's the weak point up front? Or can I wheel it pretty hard? THEN for the rear also 5.13 gears(of course) and I was thinking Yukon chromoly axle shafts in the rear when my ARB air locker goes in. Are you guys saying I shouldn't add the chromoly shafts while the air locker is going in? Are my gears the weak spot if I add the chromoly shafts back there??? What do spare U joints cost? Thanks