what are the disadvantages that go along with using spacers and do you actually have to glue them on and if you buy used ones where do you get stuff from?\\

Thanks

 

to what spacers are you referring to?
wheel spacers body lift spacers
throttle body spacer
budget boost spacers

very vague post ?
but none of those are glued on anyway

 

Are you talking about wheel spacers or spring spacers?

 

sorry about that wheel spacers

 

I assume you are referring to BOLT-ON wheel spacers and the Loctite threadlocking compound that some people use on the inner lugnuts. Loctite compound is available at any auto supply, hardware store, etc. Red is usually used, but some people elect not to use any at all. The main disadvantage to spacers is getting wheel and tire service done on your vehicle. Because of percieved liability issues, most tire places will not mount wheels on vehicles with spacers. Some states will not pass jeeps with spacers at state inspection. If you have a suspension or drive train problem under warranty and the problem is adjacient to a wheel spacer it's likely to be denied because of the spacer being installed. Now to the advantages- Nothing looks better with stock wheels than a set of 1 1/2'' spacers. A JK with spacers feels unbelievably stable on the highway. If you rotate your own tires then you have no shop problems like if you get it done. Remove the spacers when and if you have a warranty problem and they cause no problem. I run them and LOVE them. So do many other guys. Just make certain you buy BOLT-ON SPACERS not SHIM spacers. Used sets of spidertrax spacers are available on our ''For Sale'' forum. Regardless of where you buy your spacers make sure they are machined from 6061 billet alloy, hubcentric machined, with all grade 8 hardware. Good Luck!!

 

He means wheel spacers and locktite...which I suppose he calls glue.



Its just Locktite, you can get it at PepBoys, or any automotive or hardware store, etc. (How you get more of the "glue..." if you need it)



You do not glue the spacers on...they BOLT on, to the wheel hubs, and, then, the RIM is bolted to them using the lug nuts.

The Locktite goes onto the THREADS of the bolts holding the spacer to the hub, but you do not use it on the lug nuts.

Locktite is used to make the bolts lock in place, so they can't accidentally loosen, by hardening between the bolt threads and the hub...locking them together.

The kits include RED Locktite. The stores will have other colors too, like BLUE.

DO NOT go by the color of the TUBES...READ the word RED, which can be on a BLUE COLORED TUBE, etc...(Its a bit confusing...)



The RED grips the hardest, the Blue less hard, etc.

Hope that helps.



PS - spacers are good if you like your rims or don't want to buy new rims with less backspacing....as its about $200 for 4 new spacers, as opposed to maybe $ 100 - 300 per RIM for new rims....totaling $500 - $1,500 for 5 new rims.

The factory rims have 6.25" of BS....IF getting wider tires, they can rub on inboard components in the wheel wells...so, less BS pushes them outboard more, so they are pushed out to where they don't rub.

All a spacer does is give you less BS, accomplishing the above.

There are really no true disadvantages to them, as compared to new rims with less BS, assuming you get the real kind that bolts to the hub...NOT the El Cheapo kinds (Also at PepBoys, etc....) that are merely plates that are held between the rim and hub by your lug nuts, etc. (The El Cheapos are dangerous/NOT what we means by wheel spacers)

 

I ran the Spidertrax 1.5" wheel spacers for about 6 months before I purchased new wheels. They came from the manufacturer with the RED Loctite.

 

Ok,

I posted some photos on other threads of my new '09 Orange Sahara Unlimited that I modded this week. Photos were taken before the below happened. With the wheels that I chose, the backspace was the exact as factory wheels.

When looking at the Black Diamond website, my lift shop and I ordered 1.25" spacers for the 3" kit. This is the size that they say use for factory wheels offset.

Here is the SAFETY NOTE - PAY Attention:

The 1.25" spacers DO NOT stick out far enough on the rear to clear the factory studs. When the shop installed the new wheels, the hub of the rear of the wheel "stands out" because it hits the factory studs by about 1/8". This was not apparent until after they were installed, my wife drove it for 50 miles until BOTH rear wheels loosened up and could have both fallen off. She made it 3 miles away from the mod shop until someone told her that both rear wheels were "wobbling". Kinda scared her (understandably).

Bad part is that both BRAND NEW rear wheels were damaged and new ones are on the way to the shop. The lug holes in the wheel "egged" out and the wheels are useless.

The front DOES NOT have the issue.

Here's the lesson-

Once you install any bolt on spacers, make sure that you verify that the factory studs DO NOT protrude any at all in the hub area where the back of the wheel flush mounts to the spacer.

My shop has new 2" spacers on the way, so I'll keep you posted.

I do not mean to downplay spacers as I think they are very safe and guys have run them for hundreds of thousands of miles. Just pay close attention on install.

I want to verify that my new ones have grade 8 hardware, which I will do tomorrow.

 

Can someone suggest a high quality 2" spacer with grade 8 hardware?

Spydertrax?

What is the highest quality spacer that everyone is using?

 

Why not just use the 1.5" spidertrax spacer? I had them on ours for over 10K without any problems.