Steering Issues
#1
Steering Issues
Just got the 3" Full Traction Economy Lift with 35x12.5-17 BFG's and the steering is horrible. The look will have to grow on me. Not bad,... just different. Anyway, back to the steering. When I accelerate it pulls to the left and when the automatic shifts into another gear, the Jeep pulls hard to the right. Very unstable feeling in general at highway speeds. Anyone with this same problem? Anyone with a solution?
I'll post pics soon. It's dark out right now though.
I'll post pics soon. It's dark out right now though.
#2
take out the front track bar relocation bracket mine did the same thing with the
2'' lift.if you don't have a 4'' lift or bigger it's not needed.after i took the bracket
out it drove like new.
2'' lift.if you don't have a 4'' lift or bigger it's not needed.after i took the bracket
out it drove like new.
#3
Just got the 3" Full Traction Economy Lift with 35x12.5-17 BFG's and the steering is horrible. The look will have to grow on me. Not bad,... just different. Anyway, back to the steering. When I accelerate it pulls to the left and when the automatic shifts into another gear, the Jeep pulls hard to the right. Very unstable feeling in general at highway speeds. Anyone with this same problem? Anyone with a solution?
I'll post pics soon. It's dark out right now though.
I'll post pics soon. It's dark out right now though.
Like jpfreak said, this could very well be your drag link/track bar geometry and could be fixed by removing the bracket. It could also be caster. I wrote this on another thread here:
"Your wander is caused by the change of caster. Caster is the angle to which the steering pivot axis is tilted forward or rearward from vertical, as viewed from the side. If the pivot axis is tilted backward (that is, the top pivot is positioned farther rearward than the bottom pivot), then the caster is positive; if it's tilted forward, then the caster is negative.
Positive caster tends to straighten the wheel when the vehicle is traveling forward, and thus is used to enhance straight-line stability. This can be easily done with adjustable control arms, as the lower front arms can be lengthened or the upper arms shortened (or both) to add positive caster. Your dealer might be able to dig up some alignment cams that would allow them to adjust caster.
This isn't hard to fix. JKs seem to have very little positive caster from the factory. Even stock, they tend to wander just a bit."
Your problem could be not enough positive caster, although I believe the lower arms of your Full Traction kit are made a bit longer to correct this (evidently for your JK not enough). Full Traction's adjustable arms would be just what you need to dial in your Wrangler.
Last edited by Phil Howell; 12-21-2006 at 07:17 PM.
#4
while i respect mr. Howell's post (defenitely seemed well thought out) i suggest you try jpfreak's solution first. If it worked for him, then you might be better off trying that (plus it's free).
i'm lifted 3" in the front at LEAST and i didn't even have to adjust my steering wheel. I also didn't get any steering problems. I have shocks and springs
i'm lifted 3" in the front at LEAST and i didn't even have to adjust my steering wheel. I also didn't get any steering problems. I have shocks and springs
I agree 100%. Remove the bracket first and see if that fixes the problem. If that doesn't fix it, then . . .
#5
i'm unfamiliar with the geometry in the JK (for now) but is the toe-in still adjustable, meaning you may just need an alignment? track bar/drag link geometry is usually associated with bump steer.
#7
Will removing the track bar relocation bracket not make the axle off-center slightly? Does anyone know what Full Traction has to say about not using the relocation bracket? I just know that my wife has a lot of trouble keeping it in the road. She's actually a pretty good driver too. She's had two lifted TJ's of her own and has never had a problem.
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#8
Will removing the track bar relocation bracket not make the axle off-center slightly? Does anyone know what Full Traction has to say about not using the relocation bracket? I just know that my wife has a lot of trouble keeping it in the road. She's actually a pretty good driver too. She's had two lifted TJ's of her own and has never had a problem.
has one.
#9
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I know it has been mentioned several times in this thread already, but I had the same exact problem when I installed the 2" FT BB. I felt very uncomfortable with the handling. I removed the track bar relocation bracket the next day and it drove as it did before the lift was installed.
#10
It will allow you to reset your caster back to normal( the tilt of the front axle). Picture a bicycle with the front forks angled back to the frame instead of out like they typically are. That helps with waundering also. We are only talking about a couple of degrees so it is okay without them but better with them. They are a little over $200. I am not an expert, but this is what I've been told by the experts. I have the above on order, I will let you know when it all comes in and how it plays out.
Last edited by Rubimon; 12-22-2006 at 02:40 PM.