Steering Stabilizer?
 

New to the Jeep world, but have some steering/tire shaking and lane shifting on the wonderful roads that we have in Louisiana (It drives great on the interstate and better state highways). I have owned several lifted 3/4 ton trucks and installed steering stabilizers at the time of the lifts with 37" or bigger tires. Would a good single or double steering stabilizer set up work best?

I am looking at this kit: https://www.fortec4x4.com/FORTEC-983...angler-JK.html


Details on Jeep:
- 2014 Sahara Unlimited
- Teraflex 1853100 Springs
- Bilstein Shocks
- 18" Fuels
- 35 x 12.50 Nitto's

stock should be fine.

3" coils? How much lift height did you actually get? What is the caster set at? Have the tires been re-balanced? What psi are you running? Is there bumpsteer?

Most here will tell you that the stock stabilizer is fine, assuming your steering is set up correctly. (some don't even run a stabilizer.) So look elsewhere before dropping money on this...

I would suggest addressing the underlying issue causing such shaking rather than covering it up. You're jeep should drive solid without a SS if everything is in good working order, caster is correct, joints are good, and bolts are torqued to spec.....regardless of tire size. You should be able to drive without a steering stabilizer at all. The fact that you have some shaking/lane shifting speaks to having underlying issues. I'm not saying you should run without a SS, many do.....but my point is you have a problem, and SS isn't going to be the answer.

- The lift was on it when purchased, so not sure of height was obtained.
- Did not re-balance the tires, but that is next
- Running 35 PSI

Here's a quick picture you can reference to measure up front -

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8511/...d3784844_z.jpg

Note that your actual measurement is not likely to be the size of coils you have as it's common to net a little more lift than stated. That said, what people here are really wanting to know is about how much lift you have, cuz if your caster has not been corrected, that is something that will affect your driving experience, and the first place to start in getting your steering angles in order.

Since you did not install this lift yourself, part of the puzzle will be trying to figure out what you're working with. The 3 methods of adjusting caster are:

1. cam bolts - do you see anything looking like this installed in the axle's lower control arm brackets -

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon...._AC_SS350_.jpg

2. control arm geometry correction brackets - do you see anything like this installed on the frame-side of the jeep -

http://pi-amp.com/misc/P1010435.JPG

3. adjustable control arms - you should be able to easily tell if the control arms on the jeep are factory or aftermarket adjustable arms.


If you have none of these components, then you are likely running very low caster which results in kinda a crappy ride/steering. Can you tell if you have any of these.......then we can proceed from there with some help/advice.

If your caster has been corrected, then inspecting joints in the steering linkage would be the next step.

Thanks for the info.....I will check it when I get home this afternoon.

It's highly likely that you have factory steering components, but if you snap a couple pics and slap em in this thread, we can easily tell you if the drag link, tie rod, ball joints, control arms, drive shafts and all that stuff are factory or aftermarket. At least it will be a starting point for you understanding what you have and/or don't have.

I have a 2014 Jeep with a 3 1/2 AEV lift. 35's Started riding like crap. Mechanic pointed out to me that I still had factory steering components that were shot. Mopar Ball joints are shit. I just replaced ball joints, drag links, and tie rod and it now rides like a dream compared to what it was before.

To be fair, most lifts aren't including TR and DL, and y, the factory BJ's are POS in general. That's the kinda stuff that really adds to the cost of a lift and which lotta people don't factor in up front.

I do think that for the price AEV charges, they should provide actual upgraded components instead of bracketry. I used to give my buddy shit all the time about his special AEV TB's and control arms. Those brackets they use to raise the sway bar links rather than just supply longer sway bar links are redonk.