Steering Wheel
JK Jedi
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 11,363
Likes: 2,089
From: Willow Park, TX
These are things you can install in your garage if you have basic hand tools, and a torque wrench. Going back to what the shop told you, I presume them saying "the upper tie rod is the problem" is them referring to the drag link, and they might just be suggesting an entire "kit" of replacing the DL or DL ends in combination with tie rod ends as well. I would just focus on the main issue which sounds like the DL.
Depending on your course of action, install could take a different amount of effort. If you simply remove the DL and replace with same one it's easy. Remove bolts, get DL out of the knuckle and pitman arm, adjust new DL to correct length to fit right in, add new bolts and torque to spec. The DL won't just drop out of place, but it's not too hard. on the knuckle you can loosen bolt to the last few threads and tap the side of the knuckle....often the end will fall right down. If not, you can unscrew the nut till it's flush with the top of the stud and use a BFH (big hammer) to knock it down. On the pitman arm side, you can again loosen the nut and tap tap tap on the pitman arm. If it doesn't fall out you can use a pickle fork to help remove it. It will shred the boot but you're not resuing that DL again anyhow.
If you go with a DL flip and need to remove the pitman arm, you will likely need a puller to get that off the sector shaft. You can borrow these from the auto parts store. You'd then need to drill the knuckle forging to accommodate a flip. None of it is hard, be everyone has different abilities and comfort levels. If you paid someone to do it it shouldn't cost too much....maybe 1 shop hour of time would be my guess.
Depending on your course of action, install could take a different amount of effort. If you simply remove the DL and replace with same one it's easy. Remove bolts, get DL out of the knuckle and pitman arm, adjust new DL to correct length to fit right in, add new bolts and torque to spec. The DL won't just drop out of place, but it's not too hard. on the knuckle you can loosen bolt to the last few threads and tap the side of the knuckle....often the end will fall right down. If not, you can unscrew the nut till it's flush with the top of the stud and use a BFH (big hammer) to knock it down. On the pitman arm side, you can again loosen the nut and tap tap tap on the pitman arm. If it doesn't fall out you can use a pickle fork to help remove it. It will shred the boot but you're not resuing that DL again anyhow.
If you go with a DL flip and need to remove the pitman arm, you will likely need a puller to get that off the sector shaft. You can borrow these from the auto parts store. You'd then need to drill the knuckle forging to accommodate a flip. None of it is hard, be everyone has different abilities and comfort levels. If you paid someone to do it it shouldn't cost too much....maybe 1 shop hour of time would be my guess.
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 8
Likes: 1
From: Edmond
[size=13px]I found the Steer Smarts YETI Series Extreme Duty Draglink assembly top mount with stock knucks drilled on Quadratech and also Ster Smarts YETI Extreme Tie Rod with a steering damper bracket. what do you think about Steer Smarts?[/size]
JK Jedi
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 11,363
Likes: 2,089
From: Willow Park, TX
You might take a look at what Metalcloak as to offer as far as DL and TR if you are going all out. That would be a bit cheaper than SteerSmarts and high quality. Tie rods aren't cheap, so you might just focus on DL for right now unless you just want to part with the money. They don't need to be replaced at the same time or anything.