OK, so I was reading a thread in the "Show & Tell" section and from what I can gather there is a guy runnin' some 37's on stock 16" aluminum wheels....

Question is:
Whats the largest people are runnin' on the stock 16x7 wheels?

 

Are they the ones in yer project profile? Did you have them powder coated black? Thanks.

 

I'm running 255/85R16 because that about the largest tire any manufacture approves to run on a 16x7 rim. I might consider 285/75R16 but I'd have to haggle with a local tire shop to put it on. Most around my area won't do it because the tire manufactures say you need at least a 16x8 for that size tire.

There's two main issues here:
1. What the tire manufactures list as supported rim sizes for specified tire sizes.
2. What will actually work.

The further you get from the manufactures recommendations the more risk you have of irregular wear and possible tire failure (nobody wants that).

 

I'm currently runnin' 295's on the stock 16x7's now... I think I have someone that is interested in buying those sneakers and I don't wanna spring for new wheels yet. I think I'm gonna go with 315/75R16 Hankooks and get wheels later...

Just Empty Every Pocket .... And then start on yer wife's pocket!

 

There's no limit in diameter as to what fits on the RIM. What you can fit into the wheel wells is another story.

People are running up to about 13.5's on the 7 and 7.5" rims, with 12.5's being very popular.

The tire manufacturers rate the minimum rim widths based upon a safety factor for mall crawlers, who might expect tall squishy sidewalls to not squirm/roll while autocrossing parking spots, etc. (IE: Fudge factors to protect the stupid from themselves, etc.)

Off road, the wider tires on the narrower rims work great...on road, the tire is more stable/less squirrelly with a wider rim. The taller the tire, the more pronounced the sidewall stability becomes.

As for stuffage...NONE of the suspension lifts really make more room for larger tires, they pretty much all just pre-droop the suspension to raise your ride height, leaving less down travel left...but, provide the missing difference as uptravel....like if you used to have 4" of up travel and 5" of down travel, and you get a 4" SL, you end up with 1" of down travel and 8" of uptravel (Same total as stock)

That's why a lot of SL's end up with stock RTI scores...the RANGE of travel is simply occurring at a higher ride height, but the difference in travel is trivial.

The problem is that the up travel can not be as high if the tire can't fit into the well, so, they give you bumpstop extensions...which simply stop your up travel/articulation - keep the axle from rising the rest of the way.

So - you end up rubbing on stuffage if the tires are too large for the extensions, unless you do a BL, or remove your fenders/replace them with ones with more room, etc...or lose even MORE uptravel with even LONGER extensions, etc.

Frankly - I think a set of 15" compressed/27" extended shocks, and slack made for the e-brake, brake lines and wires, some longer rear sway links and a disco'd front swaybar....and you'd be cool to handle 1,000 on an RTI ramp.

To fit 35's, add a 1" BL, and,.... for frame clearance, add whatever sized lift coils...the 4" lifts seem to be equipped with shocks as short as 23-24"...so you'd STILL have more wheel travel, not need bumpstop extensions, and WOULD need to add whatever suspension/steering geometry/drive line corrections you would need for ANY lift of the lift height you wanted.

That's what the measurements indicate.