TheDirtman

I would not consider 35" tires and 2-2.5" lift to be a LCOG build. OME makes a no load 2" coil that will give you around a 2.5" lift and ride much better than the HD coils that give you around 3.5" of lift. I have run both.

A couple notes, you don't need 1350 driveshafts its way overkill, more weight, and more $$. The 1310 is perfectly fine for a jeep on 35's. Actually at a low height the factory driveshafts are better then an aftermarket as they run smoother and have a stronger joint.
You also don't need a full set of arms but if you are willing to spend the $$$ go for it.
Flat fenders will allow you to run 35's without any lift with proper back spaced wheels and bump stop.

For what you are describing doing with your jeep, this is the kit I would recommend. https://metalcloak.com/jk-wrangler-o...t-edition.html

For complete arm kit. https://metalcloak.com/jk-wrangler-g...t-edition.html

Both these kits are complete and ave everything you need and ride great both on and off road. I just finished up installing the first one on a customers JK with 35's and it rides really good.

Yemx

Mr.T, karls10jk: I will be going the flat fender route for the 35's- Probably the MCE oe width ones. I'm also planning on getting aftermarket wheels, which should take care of any backspacing and/or clearance issues... I have 4.10 gears, do y'all think a hard re-gear is necessary with 35's? Or would a computer re-flash be fine (getting a Flashpaq)? Research is a mixed bag, as it was with suspension set up... jadmt: I was taking a hard look at the AEV kit, but there's other components for other parts of the build that I want to use- that's why I didn't want to be locked into a single kit. I hate doing the same thing twice and wasting money. I may spend more money, but I'm able to piece together a kit slowly, using exactly the components I want with no wasted parts. I thank y'all again!

TheDirtman

Gearing depends on your engine/transmission. We don't know what you have. If you have 2012+ 4.10 gears and 35's is fine. If you have an older jeep with the auto than 4.88 would be a much better axle gear ratio. I flash pack will take care of the speedo and odometer but if you have an auto you might want to get something that has some addition tunes to adjust shift points.
You may want some wider fenders not OEM width as your tires are going to stick out about 3" from where they are now. I know some states have inspections and require fender coverage. You might want to research that as it would suck to put on flats and not be able to pass inspection or be in an area where they are going to be handing out tickets.

TheDirtman

There is also another great product out there that is just not mentioned much. That is the JKS ACOS system. Adjustable Coil Over Spacer. It gives you a minimal lift and allows you to adjust the height like a coil over shock. I have run and installed these and they are a great product and high quality.https://jksmfg.com/i-8938568-rear-ad...angler-jk.html

Yemx

TheDirtman- Thanks for the input about the 1310 axles! I've been debating on which to get- as Tom Wood's suggests the 1350's for 35" tires. I was wary about it- you're right, the 1350 DS's are heavier and more expensive. I would keep the stock DS, but I don't like the fact that it's not serviceable. I'm going Mr.T's route and using some OME "medium/light" 2" springs front and rear- no longer planning on using the HD springs. I'll look into those "no load" springs. Only thing I'd be concerned with is sag when I add the other parts to the jeep. I've also decided on just running the stock arms- If I can save money and still get the job done, I will! Thank you for the lift suggestions- I was looking at those too!! Sometimes I go over-board with the bench builds. I like over-building. But sometimes, one has to take a step back and really look at one's needs and what will meet those needs for the least amount of money. I thank y'all again!! I'm certainly glad I chose to join this forum!!

Yemx

TheDirtman- I was looking real hard at those ACOS too- Originally, I just wanted to get rid of the rake and compensate for the weight of the new front bumper and winch, slap on some flat fenders and 35's and call it a day. But I keep reading that OEM springs are more soft and you see more sag over time than most aftermarket springs. Hence why I go the 2" route. It's the absolute lowest I can go w/o the use of pucks, which I will not use. I may be opening up a can of worms- but what are y'all's opinion on this? Are factory springs good to go, or is the performance of aftermarket springs better/will they last longer w/no perceivable sag? I've listed most (if not all) the added weight I wish to run in a prior post, to keep the comparison even... I forgot to add the Rubicon factory rock rails and I have a set of Poison Spider rocker armor plates. Again, from what I've read so far, I tend to lean on the side of the aftermarket stuff. But I could be wrong!

Mr.T

Regarding driveshafts, the stock ones one mine have 130k on them and there is no sign of wear -- thedirtman is spot on that they are smoother and stronger, and I suspect he's referring to the same springs I'm running -- In any case the lift measures almost exactly 2" over stock with the bumpers, winch, and some skids.

Yemx

Edit: I'm still getting used to how this forum works... Some features are kind of weird. Anyhoo, I'm running a '07 JKUR automatic. The flashpaq has additional tunes, in addition to changing tire size and and such. The flashcal is the one that doesn't have tunes (unless you pay to upgrade it).

karls10jk

Aftermarket springs for me. Look at a jeep that's been on the road for a while. It's not where it used to be. You'll also see very little space between the coils. I haven't seen them completely collapse but I'd rather have a warranty behind me with coils.

TheDirtman

Yes most after market coils are designed to handle more weight. The OME handle quite a bit. I had a 8000lb winch and heavy steel bumper with the no loads and it came in just over 2" with the no loads. The HD with the same set up were 3.5". I ran both 5100 shocks and then OME nitro sport and the OME shocks rode nice with the coils.