Suspension Questions?
I am looking for some advice on what to do for my 2010 Unlimited Rubicon. Let me start by saying that I would like to have at least 35" tires. It is a daily driver for the foreseeable future, but it plays hard on the weekends. I have looked at all the FAQ's on this forum and become confused the minute that I talk to any of the 4 x 4 shops that would be doing the work. According to this forum in order to have 35" tires it would require at least a 2.5" to 3" lift. So I thought I wanted a 3" TeraFlex lift. According to the 4wheel parts shop I have talked to they are recommending a 4" Pro Comp lift because they said that the TeraFlex lift is made more for off road activity and does not do well on the road. The Pro Comp lift would be better suited for daily driving and will still do very well off the road on the weekend. Is this information from 4 wheel parts correct. In the research I have done TeraFlex does extremely well on the road as well as off, but what do I know I am just a newbie. I was told by another shop that whether it was a 3" or 4" lift that I would have to get new drivetrains because the lift would be a to severe of an angle and would damage the ones I have. According to this forum I would only need new drivetrains in the front if I had an automatic and was getting a lift of 3" or more. One place told me the ProComp would not need new drivetrains at all. There is so much info out there and most of it conflicts and I don't know what to think especially since I am a newbie and don't know jack. I just want to lift my jeep, put 35's on, and it be able to handle well on and off the road. What do I do?
ProComp is owned by 4WP. So the guys at the counter push ProComp. End of story.
Chop your flares or go to flats, get rims with the proper backspace, and add a little bumpstop, and you can run 35's with NO lift.
The suggestions for a 2.5" lift are to get you a little more suspension height/breakover angles, and keep you low enough so that you don't have to worry about a lot of the extra components that you would want with a taller lift. (up to and including new driveshafts, flip kits, adj arms to set the angles on the new shafts, etc, etc, etc)
Also be aware that most coils give more lift than stated. Those 3" TF coils will give 4". The 2.5" TF's will give 3. So do a little research to get an idea of the 'actual' lift height you should expect with whichever mfg you choose.
For driveshafts, don't fall into the "at 4" I will need one, but at 3" I won't" mindset. There are a lot of variables involved, and people are loosing them with as little as 2.5". (and a lot of other people are ok at 4+")
Chop your flares or go to flats, get rims with the proper backspace, and add a little bumpstop, and you can run 35's with NO lift.
The suggestions for a 2.5" lift are to get you a little more suspension height/breakover angles, and keep you low enough so that you don't have to worry about a lot of the extra components that you would want with a taller lift. (up to and including new driveshafts, flip kits, adj arms to set the angles on the new shafts, etc, etc, etc)
Also be aware that most coils give more lift than stated. Those 3" TF coils will give 4". The 2.5" TF's will give 3. So do a little research to get an idea of the 'actual' lift height you should expect with whichever mfg you choose.
For driveshafts, don't fall into the "at 4" I will need one, but at 3" I won't" mindset. There are a lot of variables involved, and people are loosing them with as little as 2.5". (and a lot of other people are ok at 4+")
I would trust the info stickied here over what any parts seller tells you! This info has been compiled and discussed/refined with the feedback of hundreds if not thousands of owners and there is no agenda to push...
Get the TF 2.5 coil lift....you wont regret it. A bunch also run the OME lift... Give Joe at TF a call or Dave at Northridge a call, he stocks both and can answer any question you may have! Good luck
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A coil lift like this is an easy job and just takes a couple of hours if you have the right tools.
With an auto you will bang up the front driveshaft when off roading hard, so figure that one. some rear upper adjustable control arms will help your rear shaft last longer by correcting the pinion angle.
With an auto you will bang up the front driveshaft when off roading hard, so figure that one. some rear upper adjustable control arms will help your rear shaft last longer by correcting the pinion angle.
I'm running a 2-1/2" skyjacker lift with Nitro (gas) shocks. 35" BFG KM2's. Works good for me. Also stock 17" rims with 1-1/2" wheel spacers. With only 2-1/2" lift and being the longer unlimited there is no problem with driveshafts or with vibrations. The Skyjacker lift is only $550 also.
I was under a 2 door 6 speed with a rough country 2.5" coil lift yesterday and the front ds was starting to spit grease.
for a daily driver I would look at the ome light duty springs with nitro sport shocks, extended sway bar links, and front and rear jks adjustable track bars. It will give you a couple of inches of lift and a very nice ride.
Call dave at northridge 4x4 I think he sells a kit like this for under $900
for a daily driver I would look at the ome light duty springs with nitro sport shocks, extended sway bar links, and front and rear jks adjustable track bars. It will give you a couple of inches of lift and a very nice ride.
Call dave at northridge 4x4 I think he sells a kit like this for under $900



