suspention help
Edit*** Ahh... I see you thread now. Slightly different screen name! You drive the cool overland build very nice!!
Yes, its best to loosen all of the control arms just to get the bushings seated properly. With the said, prior to my current lift, I ran a TF 2.5" coil lift and never loosened my stock arms and it rode fine. I wheeled it and I was told by a club member that the bushings will move from the articulation so it does the same thing. No clue if that's true but had I known how easy it is (for the most part) to loosen the bolts, I would have just done it. The tougestone might be passenger side upper arm but maybe you can just start with the lower ars front and rear. See if that helps. if not, could just be that you are running 4 door coils on a 2 door. Depending on what 4 door they came from, the stiffness can be significantly different.
Just in case the loosening of the bolts does not help and you look to a different spring, you should seriously consider a progressive rate spring with your build. AEV coils are all progressive (front and rear). Rock Krawler has front progressive but their main purpose is to handle extra weight of bumpers and winches. But something like those will give you a better ride. Evo has their plush ride coils which get rave reviews. RC seems to get a lot of complaints on here as well as rave reviews. very mixed. If money is an issue, you could always try Superlift. Tex from my club runs those. Very soft ride but I've seen his sag over time so he repalces them (under warranty).
Lot's of different coils to look at but once you get to heights you are seeing now (3"+) tons of other issues pop up which require more parts like adjustable control arms, adjustable track bars, driveshafts, draglink flips, etc..... If you join our club and come wheeling with us, you will be fine on a 2.5" lift and 33's to 35's. We do some very tough trails but there are either go arounds for the less built rig or we have great spotters that could pretty much get a Kia up and rock face!
Lot's of different coils to look at but once you get to heights you are seeing now (3"+) tons of other issues pop up which require more parts like adjustable control arms, adjustable track bars, driveshafts, draglink flips, etc..... If you join our club and come wheeling with us, you will be fine on a 2.5" lift and 33's to 35's. We do some very tough trails but there are either go arounds for the less built rig or we have great spotters that could pretty much get a Kia up and rock face!
Did you join the forum there?? Can't remember if I;ve seen you there yet. But Welcome!!
Edit*** Ahh... I see you thread now. Slightly different screen name! You drive the cool overland build very nice!!
Yes, its best to loosen all of the control arms just to get the bushings seated properly. With the said, prior to my current lift, I ran a TF 2.5" coil lift and never loosened my stock arms and it rode fine. I wheeled it and I was told by a club member that the bushings will move from the articulation so it does the same thing. No clue if that's true but had I known how easy it is (for the most part) to loosen the bolts, I would have just done it. The tougestone might be passenger side upper arm but maybe you can just start with the lower ars front and rear. See if that helps. if not, could just be that you are running 4 door coils on a 2 door. Depending on what 4 door they came from, the stiffness can be significantly different.
Edit*** Ahh... I see you thread now. Slightly different screen name! You drive the cool overland build very nice!!
Yes, its best to loosen all of the control arms just to get the bushings seated properly. With the said, prior to my current lift, I ran a TF 2.5" coil lift and never loosened my stock arms and it rode fine. I wheeled it and I was told by a club member that the bushings will move from the articulation so it does the same thing. No clue if that's true but had I known how easy it is (for the most part) to loosen the bolts, I would have just done it. The tougestone might be passenger side upper arm but maybe you can just start with the lower ars front and rear. See if that helps. if not, could just be that you are running 4 door coils on a 2 door. Depending on what 4 door they came from, the stiffness can be significantly different.
I had the Rubi springs in my JK Sport for a while. Ride was better than stock Sport springs but just barely OK. Changed the whole thing out for progressive lift springs and Bilstein shocks. Rides great now, with lots of suspension travel and flex off-road too.
It depends is the best answer I can give you. I run 3.5" coils with heavy bumpers front and rear and I netted about 4" of lift with my JKU.
Another guy in my club runs a 2 door on the RK 2.5" coils with stock bumper and his sits at least as high as me. his front coils have no compression in the top 3 or 4 wraps which are designed to absorb the heavy weight. He almost has reverse rake on his Jeep.
You would most certainly want to add proper bumpstops. The actual size will depend on the coils you get, the size tires you run and the range of your shocks. So depending on your current shocks and what they are rated for for a lift height, you may need to get longer ones or get proper bumpstops so you don't overextend them. The lift company you go with can give you a recomendation on what bumpstops to get
As for control arms....some people complain about wandering or flighty issues with a 2.5" lift. Adding even that much height will bring your caster down quite a bit. Most people can live with it. I did for 2 years before going with my bigger lift. It's usually cheaper to get all the components as a package but maybe you can work out a deal with a company to "upgrade" at bundled pricing if you need to add other components later. Just a thought.
I have no wander/drift issues as it sots now i am running bilsteins for 2 to 4in lift so springs and bump stops are what i need. Hopefully beyter springs will help ride quality
Last edited by Scootersjk; Apr 3, 2013 at 08:09 AM.


