Synergy Drag Link boots split, misaligned too much?
11-19-2017, 06:45 AM
#11
Super Moderator
I kept splitting the boot where my synergy tierod and drag link connect. Found out the tire shop I use for free rotations was over greasing the boots. I was able to see my truck one day and watch the guy squeeze the pump handle 8 times even though I asked them not to grease since I do it myself. Over greasing will cause it to rip. The spring clip on the boot is the worst one in my opinion. I haven't had much issue with the newer solid clip and ordered direct from synergy. North ridge has them also. You should be fine if they don't get over greased.
11-20-2017, 02:59 PM
#12
Super Moderator
Can someone post a link to a replacement boot for the Synergy DL?
I also have the Synergy DL with the white boots and pony tail holder springs. Looked like the biggest piece of garbage I've seen put on a nice DL. I expect I will have the same issues as the OP and would like to replace mine.
I also have the Synergy DL with the white boots and pony tail holder springs. Looked like the biggest piece of garbage I've seen put on a nice DL. I expect I will have the same issues as the OP and would like to replace mine.
11-21-2017, 06:18 PM
#13
Can someone post a link to a replacement boot for the Synergy DL?
I also have the Synergy DL with the white boots and pony tail holder springs. Looked like the biggest piece of garbage I've seen put on a nice DL. I expect I will have the same issues as the OP and would like to replace mine.
I also have the Synergy DL with the white boots and pony tail holder springs. Looked like the biggest piece of garbage I've seen put on a nice DL. I expect I will have the same issues as the OP and would like to replace mine.
Important with Synergy's drag link boots not to over lube them during servicing. It can split the clear plastic or pop the springs off. The tie rod misalignment boots aren't as picky.
Based upon a scary incident a few years ago, I don't recommend the metal caps and I'm surprised they've started offering them again. I had the tie rod fall off in Moab while pulling into a parking spot. This came after the drive over to Moab and a trail run. Had it happened during either of those segments of the day I might not be here. The cap prevented the taper of the Synergy tie rod ends from properly seating in the knuckles (Reids). I was able to torque the nuts to spec with the metal caps installed, but the tapers went seated. I removed the caps out on the trail and have run the misalignment boots alone since that time successfully. I contacted Synergy, who said they'd had a similar report from another customer. They pulled the caps from their inventory and just sold the boot.. New ones may be OK, but be very careful when installing. In my case there was insufficient clearance between the bottom of the knuckle arms and the TRE. This caused the cap to jam when torqued down. Synergy claimed there's wide variability in the depth of the taper on various knuckles.
Based upon a scary incident a few years ago, I don't recommend the metal caps and I'm surprised they've started offering them again. I had the tie rod fall off in Moab while pulling into a parking spot. This came after the drive over to Moab and a trail run. Had it happened during either of those segments of the day I might not be here. The cap prevented the taper of the Synergy tie rod ends from properly seating in the knuckles (Reids). I was able to torque the nuts to spec with the metal caps installed, but the tapers went seated. I removed the caps out on the trail and have run the misalignment boots alone since that time successfully. I contacted Synergy, who said they'd had a similar report from another customer. They pulled the caps from their inventory and just sold the boot.. New ones may be OK, but be very careful when installing. In my case there was insufficient clearance between the bottom of the knuckle arms and the TRE. This caused the cap to jam when torqued down. Synergy claimed there's wide variability in the depth of the taper on various knuckles.
Seems like this was also because of a missing cotter pin in your setup.
11-22-2017, 04:15 AM
#14
https://www.polyperformance.com/syne...l-tie-rod-ends
Seems like this was also because of a missing cotter pin in your setup.
Seems like this was also because of a missing cotter pin in your setup.
When I got home from the Moab trip I contacted Synergy about the issue and sent them the photo. They'd had a similar incident reported and as a result they pulled the caps from the boot kits. As I mentioned above, I'm surprised they reintroduced the metal caps. Perhaps they used a thinner metal, not sure, but I'd again warn anyone using them to be absolutely certain their TREs' studs are fully seated in the knuckles once they're toqued down. If the cap is interfering between the TRE and the knuckle it will feel as though the stud is fully seated when you torque them down. I'd try a feeler gauge between the cap and underside of the knuckle arm to be sure there is some clearance. Forewarned is forearmed, this kind of failure could be fatal.
11-22-2017, 02:11 PM
#15
WRONG! The nuts were torgued to factory spec. and cotter pins were properly installed. Because the metal caps prevented the TRE studs from fully seating in the knuckle tapers, when torqued down the studs could spin. This eventually sheared off the cotter pin on the passenger side and the nut worked completely loose. (It was still sitting on the top of the knuckle arm.) We reinstalled the tie rod in the parking lot, torqued the nut and reinstalled a cotter pin. When we checked the other side it was loose but hadn't yet sheared the cotter pin. We retorqued the driver side, put in a new pin and thought we were OK for the next day's trail run. Next day on Poison Spider Mesa I checked them and the cotter pin on the passenger side had sheared again. Driver side was loose as well. At that point we knew what was happening so I removed the metal caps which allowed the studs to fully seat. Since then the boots alone have been sufficient to prevent the tie rod from rotating up & down, which was what we were trying to accomplish with the caps in the first place.
When I got home from the Moab trip I contacted Synergy about the issue and sent them the photo. They'd had a similar incident reported and as a result they pulled the caps from the boot kits. As I mentioned above, I'm surprised they reintroduced the metal caps. Perhaps they used a thinner metal, not sure, but I'd again warn anyone using them to be absolutely certain their TREs' studs are fully seated in the knuckles once they're toqued down. If the cap is interfering between the TRE and the knuckle it will feel as though the stud is fully seated when you torque them down. I'd try a feeler gauge between the cap and underside of the knuckle arm to be sure there is some clearance. Forewarned is forearmed, this kind of failure could be fatal.
When I got home from the Moab trip I contacted Synergy about the issue and sent them the photo. They'd had a similar incident reported and as a result they pulled the caps from the boot kits. As I mentioned above, I'm surprised they reintroduced the metal caps. Perhaps they used a thinner metal, not sure, but I'd again warn anyone using them to be absolutely certain their TREs' studs are fully seated in the knuckles once they're toqued down. If the cap is interfering between the TRE and the knuckle it will feel as though the stud is fully seated when you torque them down. I'd try a feeler gauge between the cap and underside of the knuckle arm to be sure there is some clearance. Forewarned is forearmed, this kind of failure could be fatal.
Yeah not sure because mine are just fine and have been fine since the day I installed them a little over a year ago. I also have a thicker cotter pin than those included in the kits.
11-23-2017, 04:29 AM
#16
They will be OK as long as the taper in the knuckle isn't cut too deep, permitting the stud on the TRE to seat in the knuckle before the cap binds between it and the bottom od the knuckle arm. As I said, check with a feeler gauge, etc. to make sure there's clearance. The cotter pin will only hold for a while before the tension in the stud will shear it off.