I am installing my tera44 front axle tomorrow. I am running a 4 inch lift on my jk rubi unlimited. I am looking at what length to set the upper and lower control arms. I am assuming that due to the caster change in this axle to correct the pinion angle that my control arm length will change?? has anyone installed this axle if so can you let me know what length you set for the uppers and lowers. I also need to know which holes you used to attach the monster track bar. from what i can tell there is four different levels to attach the track bar?? This thing needs some instructions?? thx all

 

I would start with the uppers at 19" and adjust the lowers until you reach your desired caster. On the track bar you want it parallel with the drag link.

 

I would do the opposite. I would set the caster angle first and not worry about front pinion angle much as they are high pinion and not that sensitive....in the end, it is a balance between caster and pinion angle. Ideally, you would have ordered the new axle with the lift designed in so both would be present .

 

Set the lowers so at full bump the you are lined up with the bumpstop on each side.
Uppers for pinion. Assuming the housing has more separation then the stock housing so caster should be fine.
Setting "lengths" is not the correct way to do this.

 

Start at the factory lengths on the arms, if you want to push the axle forward to recenter the axle in the factory location then you will need to extend the uppers and lower the same amount to move the axle forward.

 

wow four different suggestions?? are any of you running this axle or a prorock 44. i know the pinion angle is already adjusted for the lift, but I dont know what kind of caster to set the axle at as the pinion angle is not the same as a stock 44 so I cant use that 4.5 5.5 type of numbers for the caster?? I think I will go with the idea of centering the bumpstop and then doing the lowers and then adjusting the uppers for whatever pinion angle I come up with. I also will be doing the passenger upper 1/8 shorter to deal with the notorious jk pull?

 

The stock housing only has 6 degrees between caster/pinion. Iirc TF builds the housing to your lift height.

Do you have a aftermarket shaft? If so you want the pinion a couple degrees lower then the driveshaft. The increased separation should get you a decent caster angle whereas the stock housing would be crap.

 

I am running full float prorock 60's front and rear that includes caster correction up front for a 4" lift. I am running a custom built 3 link long arm front suspension with a double triangulated 4 link on the rear. Coil overs on all 4 corners.
Nobody works on my rig but me. My build thread is can be found at this link if you need to know what my experience is.
The time has come.....TheDirtmans level 4 build...Ha!...ha!....ha!...cough!...cough! - Page 30

If you have a caster corrected axle and mounted it on the size of lift you bought it for, you would simply need to bolt it on to the factory length control arms to be at factory spec on the caster. In addition all of your brackets should be welded on so they are in the factory positions as well. Your coil perches should be level to the ground if you lift matches the correction amount on the new axle.

Now if you are mounting on to a 3" lift with factory control arm lengths you wheel base will be shorter then the factory by 1.5"-2" You would want to lengthen both the top and bottom arms the same amount to push the axles back to the center of the wheel wells. Once this is done the upper coil perches, bump stops, sway bar links, and shock mounts should be back in line just like it was from the factory.

 

^ jealous !!!