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Teraflex ball joint life

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Old Jan 18, 2018 | 07:11 AM
  #11  
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I've had the same stock ball joints on for the last 7 years and no problems. Maybe I won't be doing this "upgrade". Hmmm...
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Old Jan 18, 2018 | 07:22 AM
  #12  
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Bailed on the Synergy units after only 2k miles when mine failed so opted for the RP sets. They are beefy and I signed up for the "dual load" concept. Makes sense. Only have about 7k on mine since installing (some heavy offroad) but so far so good. Did not have an issue with going from the knurled Synergys, they still went in really tight but I have a PR44 with more meat. Don't believe it would be an issue regardless. You will need a wrench large enough for the upper BJ nut.

Eric at Offroad Elements can hook you up.

Wrench: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Last edited by fredrok; Jan 18, 2018 at 07:27 AM. Reason: Add link
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Old Jan 18, 2018 | 05:17 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by BoraBora
Huh weird, did it do that from day one? Have you tried a new zerk?
They did act like this since day one. Have tried a different fitting too. I'll keep soldiering on with them for now but if they go the route yours have, I'll be looking at different brand too.
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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 05:47 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Seizer
Well this doesn't give me the warm fuzzys. I installed mine around September of '17. BoraBora it's not due to not being a knurled ball joint is it? Also did you ever have any issues getting grease to flow into yours?

I certainly have had trouble with greasing mine. The joints sometimes absolutely refuse to take grease from a standard straight zerk fitting. I've had to use a needle fitting and even sometimes that's questionable whether it's taken grease. I emailed TF about my concern even before the axle was installed on my JK. They said drive it first, then I discussed their installation instructions which said they had to be greased first. The reply was they are already greased. I was concerned about possible warranty issues since two of them did not seem to want to take grease when sitting on the work bench. Their last reply was crickets. Certainly not what I was hoping for after dishing out a few hundred for some ball joints.
Any time you have difficulty getting grease to flow into a ball joint get the tires off the ground and turn the wheels left or right a bit until the grease channel in the ball isaligned wih the zerk. Assuming the zerk isn't clogged or otherwise jammed the grease will go right in.
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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 05:49 PM
  #15  
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Wuld just add that I've been running Synergy's ball joints in a Teraflex R44 housing with Reids for over 30k miles now and they show no signs of excessive wear. Lube them and they will live. Whan any ball joint fails at 2k mloes as has been suggested I'd be taking avery close look at the installation as the culprit, not the ball joint.
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Old Jan 25, 2018 | 06:57 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by SoK66
Wuld just add that I've been running Synergy's ball joints in a Teraflex R44 housing with Reids for over 30k miles now and they show no signs of excessive wear. Lube them and they will live. Whan any ball joint fails at 2k mloes as has been suggested I'd be taking avery close look at the installation as the culprit, not the ball joint.
Nah, that wouldn't be it. I'm likely one of the few that actually owns the proper OTC press since I've done enough for myself and buddies. Besides, Northridge installed my particular Synergies when they sold me the PR44. Wild ass guess, but I'm thinking they've done it before. The Synergy joints I installed in my stock front end were going on 20k miles or so when I pulled it but they were installed when first released. Possibly some manufacture changes along the way since a quick search will reveal it's not that uncommon.

Usage, terrain, pot holes, wheel back spacing, tire size; so many contributors and factors.
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Old Jan 25, 2018 | 10:49 AM
  #17  
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Bought the press for $170 and followed the steps. They went in smooth, and I greased them when they went in...soooo if you're insinuating that I somehow incorrectly installed them, please enlighten me. I'd rate this as one of the easiest installs. Hell, so easy the average dad in my area (same type of person who will pay a shop thousands to install their coil/shock lift 'kit') will tackle it in a weekend.

I wheel the crap out of the Jeep, and occasionally drive it on the road...which in D.C. equates to crappy pot-hole ridden washboard roads. I'm also running 3.5" of backspacing. Considering the other 3 are still tight, I'm 100% blaming the joint on this one.
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Old Jan 25, 2018 | 01:22 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by SoK66
Any time you have difficulty getting grease to flow into a ball joint get the tires off the ground and turn the wheels left or right a bit until the grease channel in the ball isaligned wih the zerk. Assuming the zerk isn't clogged or otherwise jammed the grease will go right in.
I've tried this too. Here's a video of exactly what mine are doing too. No this is not me. One upper BJ and one lower BJ have acted like this since day one, when I had the axle on the bench.
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Old Jan 27, 2018 | 12:07 PM
  #19  
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I put about 10K miles on my TF ball joints over nearly 3 years. I installed them around March of 2015. They were nice and tight when I sold that axle a couple months ago.... Ran them on a sleeved & gusseted Rubi 44 running 37's, those BJ's ran Rubicon, Dusy & many Big Bear and Hammers trails.... Have you tried adjusting the pre-load?
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Old Jan 27, 2018 | 12:25 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Ajkaz
I put about 10K miles on my TF ball joints over nearly 3 years. I installed them around March of 2015. They were nice and tight when I sold that axle a couple months ago.... Ran them on a sleeved & gusseted Rubi 44 running 37's, those BJ's ran Rubicon, Dusy & many Big Bear and Hammers trails.... Have you tried adjusting the pre-load?
Negative not yet, but it's the driver side top ball joint that's gone bad...which isn't adjustable like the lowers.

Have you needed to re-torque/adjust the preload on the lowers already?
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