not on a 4DR. eventually it may break, but I will cross that bridge when I get there.
I wheel pretty aggressively as well. No issues "yet"...

 

damn that looks good.

you're making me start thinking....

 

I did a TF 4" kit with 3" springs and 35s on my '09 Rubi UL last summer and have been very pleased with the results. We bought TFs driveshafts with the suspension kit and can recommend them. We also installed TFs bumpers, a Warn Powerplant winch a. I tossed TFs brake lines as I didn't care for the way they had to be routed. I also did a steering kit up front to strengthen the track bar mount and correct the drag link angle. The weight of the front bumper & winch required an additional 1" spacer in front to level the Jeep. Total lift measures out to just under 4" actual. We also installed Kilbys shock, muffler & rear shock skids, and a full engine/trans/t-case skid kit. The only issue we've had to date was that the rear tack bar rubbed on the RR spring. We added TFs' adjustable rear track bar, and RKs' rear spring seat wedges and eliminated the problem completely.

I live in the Four Corners and have taken it all over our local mountain trails, and was just over in Moab & ran some serious rocks. Got a little rub on the skids going over a few ledges, not sure the same wouldn't happen with the 4" springs. No real issues to date, but there are a few things you have to consider for this to work reliably. There is really no inexpensive way to do this properly, don't try and "cheap it out" or you'll be disappointed. You're better off just leaving it stock and saving up the cash than trying to do this a step at a time. You'll just end up doing things multiple times and spending more. Some examples: You will have to replace your driveshafts, the stock ones can't take either the deflection or any serious rock hits for long. You will have to re-gear, even the Rubi's 4.10s are inadequate. I did 4.88s as I don't plan to run larger than 35s, if I did I'd do 5.13s. Gears are the only conversions I didn't do myself as I don't have the proper workspace or tools. Labor was just over $1k, gears, etc. from Quadratec (Superior) were another $800.

Plan it all out beforehand and it will go smoothly. As noted, I did all the work myself except the gears, working in my home garage. I have a lot of tech experience and a full set of tools. These are complex suspensions and expect to take a lot of time measuring and getting things adjusted & torqued correctly.

 

How do you have that roof rack attached at the rear? I see the typical windshield panel mounts on the front, but can't tell what you're doing above the roof. I don't see anything running down to the rear fender like most of the rack systems do.

 

I have the 4" full flex with 35's rides great, looks great , I love it.

 

TF 2.5 coil lift and 35s. 4" is WAY too much for 35s. What I have and love.

 

That's because it is mounted through the soft top to the roll bars. WOrks well and I have put a couple hundred pounds up there with no issues. I also customized the length of the rack as the one for the 2dr is short and the one for the 4dr goes to the back of the hard top which would look funny with the trek top.

 

Not true... 4" is PERFECT IF you have stock fenders

Although the 37's look perfect in my opinion, I had the 4in flex arm kit with 35's and it still looked pretty bad ass with the chopped fenders. And the performance you will get out of the flex arms you just cannot get with the 2.5 BB.

35's 4" Flex Arm kit:

 

I agree 4" looks great

 

I had an OME on my prior rider (FJ Cruiser) and loved it. The ride quality was very smooth and it felt very contolled on the road. You'll love the OME.