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Teraflex sway bar disconnect

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Old Nov 1, 2008 | 07:31 PM
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Default Teraflex sway bar disconnect

I have a Teraflex sway bar disconnect - it was installed by Teraflex Plus in Salt Lake City. I disconnected it today for the first time and the bolt hung up on the frame. I had to beat it with a tire iron to get the too-long bolt past the frame to secure the sway bar up. Has anyone else had this problem?
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 11:30 AM
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No, but then I cut my bolts off to prevent this problem. However, I did run a few months with it before I got around to that and did not have a problem--but looking at it I could tell the clearance was quite close and problematical. So, cut off the bolts leaving only two exposed threads. I used a cut-off wheel and it took only a few seconds. If you screw a nut onto the bolt before making the cut, you can back off the nut to restore the threads after making the cut.
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 11:44 AM
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Had to cut the bolts on mine as well. The bolt hit the spring perch on the frame. Works fine now. Altough, I do have to angle to link just right when raising up the swaybar or the grease zerks will hit on the springs.
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Old Nov 3, 2008 | 01:04 PM
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Would it work to just disconnect one side and bungie cord the distal shaft to the proximal shaft?
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Old Nov 3, 2008 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by utah-jk
Would it work to just disconnect one side and bungie cord the distal shaft to the proximal shaft?

what are you a doctor????




mine hit the wheel liner, I just grabbed some aviation snips and trimmed the liner a bit an no more rubbing.. IDK if that will help you bt it worked for me. Cutting the bolt sounds like the best solution.
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Old Nov 3, 2008 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by racer83l
what are you a doctor????
If he was a doctor, he wouldn't use a bungie cord, he'd use an inter venous bi cardiod infusion rectociter cord. Those cost more.
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Old Nov 3, 2008 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by utah-jk
Would it work to just disconnect one side and bungie cord the distal shaft to the proximal shaft?
Ummm no, you need to disconnect both sides. Can you bring it by? Or send me some pics? You should be able to just pull the bottom QD pin on both sides and slide the discos off the axle pins. Then rotate the anti bar up a little then swing the discos onto the upper park pins.
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Old Nov 3, 2008 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by TeraFlex
Ummm no, you need to disconnect both sides. Can you bring it by? Or send me some pics? You should be able to just pull the bottom QD pin on both sides and slide the discos off the axle pins. Then rotate the anti bar up a little then swing the discos onto the upper park pins.
this is what i was thinking...what bolts are you guys referring to? there shouldnt be any bolt moving that i know of
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Old Nov 5, 2008 | 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by voodoojk
...what bolts are you guys referring to? ...
This pic is from my write-up on doing the install. Check out the bolt at the upper end of the magenta line. You can trim something up (other side of the bolt or sheet metal) such that it desn't contact the wheel well sheetmetal or the upper spring perch (under the "which is" in the pic). Check out the clearance connected (with articulation), disconnected (as in the image), and when moving it between the two:


Last edited by Mark Doiron; Nov 5, 2008 at 06:55 AM.
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Old Nov 5, 2008 | 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by twaldron
If he was a doctor, he wouldn't use a bungie cord, he'd use an inter venous bi cardiod infusion rectociter cord. Those cost more.
That sounds disgusting. Except the rectociter part. That's just plain kinky.
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