They (mechanic shop) are installing the Teraflex big brakes with a new lines and new pump. Looks like that the have encounter a problem that they cannot solve: the pedal is very soft (and I read that is common) and more important it does not come all the way up. The system was bled do far 3 times, nothing happened, TF advised to do an emergency hard braking.... They will try that, but do you have any other advice?

Thanks

 

Sometimes it is necessarily to hook up a scan tool and activate the ABS to bleed the complete system. A trip to the dealership might be required if your shop doesn't have the capability to do this. This might help.

 

What Moochie said

 

I have not tried the car yet, apparently they did drain the ABS line, they spoke again with TF, and they said that the pedal will be soft and the "softness" gives you the feeling of the pedal lower than usual andvthat it will take 300 miles break in period......I hope for the best

 

I had the same problem and couldn't figure it out. Took it to 3 different shops and they couldn't figure it. Everyone said it was the ABS and to perform some hard braking. That didn't work...finally at my wits end I switched the bleeder nipples from the bottom to the top and rebled the brakes and everything worked fine. Sometimes its the simple things...

 

The bleeder nipples need to be on the top so the air can escape.

 

Pm your phone number to me and I will have Dennis Wood call you on this.

 

PM just posted

 

Here, just let Dennis walk you through it... TeraFlex Install: JK Big Brake Kit Part 1 of 2 - YouTube

 

Also this may help:

Some folks are having a soft brake pedal after installing braided brake lines. They simply disconnect the brake lines and let brake fluid drain out while they are putting on the new braided lines. The problem is a lot of air is getting into the brake system hard lines and anti lock unit. When that happens you need a special service module/computer to open and close valves in the antilock unit while bleeding the system. I've found a way to avoid this It takes two people to complete, one to put a finger on the disconnected brake line and hold it, the other to do the replacement work. Once you disconnect the upper brake line connection have your buddy put a finger over the hard line fitting so no brake fluid leaks out, which also means no air will get into the brake system(antilock unit). Now loosen the bleeder valve on the caliper, loosen the lower banjo bolt attaching the brake line to the caliper, remove and install the new braided line complete with new copper washers. Before connecting the top brake line fitting take a small syringe (I use a WD40 red tube connected to the syringe) filled with brake fluid and slowly fill the new braided brake line from the top. Eventually brake fluid will start coming out of the bleeder valve once the caliper and brake line are full of brake fluid and almost no air. Tighten the bleeder valve. Now quickly make the top connection of the braided brake line to the hard line of the JK. Once this is tight complete Eddie's brake bleeding procedure and you should be good to go A similar process is needed for the master cylinder replacement, first bench bleed the master cylinder then have someone plug the hardlines while you replace the master cylinder. The goal on both is to have as little air enter the system as possible. Remember if brake fluid is coming out of the system(not in the brake bleeding process) then most likely air is entering the system.

Now you can install braided brake lines and not worry about a soft brake pedal afterwards

My via life experience and common sense