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Thoughts on new setup for 37's

Old Sep 22, 2017 | 06:46 AM
  #11  
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Here are my 2 cents. We have the MC lift for 3,5 years with $0 maintenance cost to it. My friend has the RK lift for the same time and his joints has been rebuilt twice. Is that worth a $250 gift card......................
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Old Sep 22, 2017 | 06:50 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by last5liter
I assume either lift will flex alot more than my 2.5" budget boost with stock arms?
It will flex more, but it all depends on the bump stop set up as to how much up travel. The arms will definitely move better than the stock.

Going to 37's isn't cheap by any means. I got a smoking deal on Rubi axles and worked a deal with a shop on welding sleeves and gussets. After the lift, tires, axles, and labor I was pass 6k. That doesn't include add ons like the sPod to run my lockers, hydro steer(which is waiting to be installed), and other smaller nick-nacks like fluids, hardware, seals, and bearings.
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Old Sep 22, 2017 | 06:51 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by 4x4chick
Here are my 2 cents. We have the MC lift for 3,5 years with $0 maintenance cost to it. My friend has the RK lift for the same time and his joints has been rebuilt twice. Is that worth a $250 gift card......................
Perfectly said. You couldn't pay me to run those joints. The synergy ddb bushings are great with no maintainence as well. I would look at the synergy kits as well as the metalcloak
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Old Sep 22, 2017 | 06:51 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by austin160
I agree with resharp. The bushings are completely different. If you are very particular about regular maintenance the RK kit will be fine. I am kinda lazy and enjoy drinking beer while hitting mine with a pressure washer, no joint greasing for me.

He is also correct about the extras for 37's; driveshaft(front is a must), new axle shafts(I'm running stock front til they break, rears are Yukon not sure how strong they were in the axle when I bought it.) Tie rod isn't a necessity until it bends, RuffStuff specialtie has a good one(I won one at a raffle luckily and had it on hand when I bent my stock on a rock.)
Why is a front drove shaft needed?

Currently I have a open diff D30 up front and an ARB locker and 35 spline shafts in my rear D44

The plans is to go with a pro rock 44 up front maybe next spring
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Old Sep 22, 2017 | 06:55 AM
  #15  
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I can't speak directly to the Rock Sport shocks. If it were me, I'd probably by a package without shocks and pair it with a shock of my choosing. I would just note that going from your current set up with 35s to a 3.5" lift with 37s is likely going to cost more than you expect it might....it always does. You often run in to things along the way. If you have a tight budget, this is a rude awakening.
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Old Sep 22, 2017 | 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by last5liter
Why is a front drove shaft needed?
3.5" lift will kill factory driveshaft. Failure at the TC side as the boot will rip and sling all the grease out.

With your 2dr, that rear might be in danger as well. The longer wheelbase on the 4dr is a bit easier on the angles for our rear DS.
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Old Sep 22, 2017 | 07:01 AM
  #17  
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I believe teraflex has a high angle cv kit to address the angle issue without a new drive shaft?
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Old Sep 22, 2017 | 07:08 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by last5liter
I believe teraflex has a high angle cv kit to address the angle issue without a new drive shaft?
Some might argue that is a bandaid for what is already a POS factory DS, some might say it works fine for their needs. Depends on how you use the jeep. If you wheel it more than fire roads, I think it's just worthwhile to get a new shaft. $140 for a high angle kit and you still have a weak shaft vs. just buying a shaft that will be stronger and last longer.
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Old Sep 22, 2017 | 07:20 AM
  #19  
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^^^^what he said. Especially on a 2dr. You can use the exhaust extension to make the clearance needed, but eventually the boot will rip or melt, and you will need a new drive shaft. Adams 1310 is what I went with, I haven't replaced the rear yet still waiting on it to give out.
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Old Sep 22, 2017 | 07:29 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by resharp001
I can't speak directly to the Rock Sport shocks. If it were me, I'd probably by a package without shocks and pair it with a shock of my choosing. I would just note that going from your current set up with 35s to a 3.5" lift with 37s is likely going to cost more than you expect it might....it always does. You often run in to things along the way. If you have a tight budget, this is a rude awakening.
I was figuring $2500 budget for the lift.
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