I would like to get the tie rod up more on my D44.

Has anyone seen or heard of kits/work/parts that can do it? I run a 4.5" lift and already have the drag link flip. It looks like I have plenty of room to do the flip but I'd need ends that would have to look similar to the factory ends.

I don't think a straight reem and johnny joints would work because of the angles needed. It looks like I'd need to go to a 1-ton style end so it could be reemed.

Does anyone have any ideas or experience with this?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, including kits or fab suggestions.

 

U can flip the OEM tie rod bar with tapered inserts aev makes that Northridge sells for 10$ I think.
Then the adjuster sleeve on OEM bar would be on pass side.
U also need a 7/8" drill bit for the knuckle.
The currie tie rod bar cannot be flipped due to the size of the joint end.
So the OEM bar would need to be flipped left to right and rotated so the bends are correct.

 

That is AWSOME! And easy to do! I'll get on it!!!

Thank you!

 

Ok,
I spoke with two of the manufacturers. They said the TRE on the passenger side would not clear the bottom of the flipped drag link bolt. It sounds funny so I'll need to head home and take some pics to see if I could get it to work before spending the money.

Also, it looked to me like the existing JK factory tie rod is bent around the front diff meaning I'd have to just adjust each end 180 degrees, re-measure and install rather than flipping the whole thing around. Does that make sense?

Any other suggestions? Has anyone done to flip so I could check out some pictures?

 

What ur saying makes sense, now that I'm thinking about it more. I forgot about that bend for the diff. I replaced my tie rod bar a while ago. And I think the pass side tre is part of the bar. I think... I don't have my stocker here. Maybe u can't flip the stock one... I would think though if u got a rk tie rod bar, or similar that uses the factory drag link end would def work. I honestly thought u could flip the stocker, but maybe I'm wrong.. I tried to flip my currie and the ends are waay to big to fit in the space on the knuckle between the drag and tie rod.
U could use a tape measure and measue the end, and measure the space between both mounts and see if it will fit.
It almost seems like a different knuckle with more space would be ideal.
Keep us posted!

 

I got home and took some pictures. In looking at the TR ends, it sure looks to me like a flip would work! I'm going to get the inserts and try to fab it. I didn't think about one side of the stock TRE being fixed. I hope I can rotate it. If so this may be fairly straightforward.

We'll see.

 

The Reid knuckles willl raise your tie rod about an inch and half and allow for the flipped drag link to work as well.

 

I spoke with the guys at Northridge last night. They talked about the Reid knuckles and the 1.5" gain. They suggested going with the curry tie rod instead since it could take a beating and the 1.5" gain wasn't enough to get it over the axle tube.

I bought three of their tapered inserts and am going to try the flip approach. Northridge told me that if all else fails I can just put the inserts in from the bottom and re-install my tie rod in the factory location. this means I have nothing to lose but about $50 and two hours worth my time.

If the parts come in, I'll try it this weekend.

 

I ordered my Currie Tie Rod today. I spoke with Currie and they told me they designed the JK specifically so it could be flipped. I won't have the tierod until next week so I can't install it until next weekend. If it works, I'll post pics. If it doesn't work, I'll post pics some someone can disign a fix for it.

Oh, and Props to Northridge! They got me the sleeves in one day! Ordered yesterday and arrived today!!!!

EXCELLENT JOB NORTHRIDGE!

 

if u get the currie to work flipped id love to see the pics!!! i tried it and the ends are just to big... i hope it does work! id love to flip mine.keep us informed.
dont forget the 7/8" drill bit....