Yeah, the prices on the currie stuff is silly. Unless you wheel hard, why not just replace with stock parts and save the money? I'd bet you could pick up a like new tie rod for next to nothing. Drag link ends aren't expensive new.

I agree on the silly price, the stock unit new would be about $130, I was thinking if I went heavy duty that it would last longer? My wheeling is daily driver to sand dunes to getting in trouble occasionally

Check out the mountain goat series from spohn.net. Great price, with 1 ton ends with factory tapper.

I just replaced mine along with the steering drag link, went with moog on that.

I am in the market for a new drag link and tie rod also. I was looking at the synergy too. How do you know if you need a flip drag as compared to a replacement drag link? I am running an OME HD lift and have JKS trackbar and disconnects.

Have you seen the new TeraFlex HD Tie Rod & Draglinks?

The TeraFlex HD tie rod kit is designed for extreme conditions that typically will cause factory steering components to bend and fail. The HD 1.6” O.D. 4140 heat treated chromoly tie rod is over 200% stronger than the factory tie rod. The forged tie rod end housing is designed specifically for JKs and allows proper clearance for use with factory 17” wheels. The tie rod end joint incorporates the same features found in our ball joints, including a 4140 chrome moly Ball/stud and 1045 carbon steel housing. It also features adjustable preload tension to ensure proper long term durability. The joint is pressed into the rod end housing and secured with a snap ring. When oriented in the Tie Rod configuration, the joint offers a total of 14 degrees of movement to minimize tie rod roll, but will still allow maximum turning. The HD drag link is fully forged to eliminate any excess movement during hard steering maneuvers and utilizes an oversized DOM factory style adjusting collar and pinch clamp for simple adjustments. The HD drag link incorporates the same rod end housing joints as used in the HD tie rod.

Attachment 608710

You buy direct from TeraFlex here: https://teraflex.com/shop_items/54d5...a57b6ef9ef9980 or from your favorite TeraFlex dealer.

#1853900 $749.99 JK HD Tie Rod & Drag Link Kit

#1853905 $749.99 JK HD Tie Rod & Flipped Drag Link Kit

#1853910 $399.99 JK HD Tie Rod

#1853920 $397.99 JK HD Drag Link

#1853930 $379.99 JK Flipped Drag Link

A Fox #803-02-039 Tie Mounting Clamp is required for mounting the stabilizer to the HD Tie Rod


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O5QUlEWZ2-M

$400 +/- vs $150 for the RuffStuff, which is what I run on mine. Theres also a company called offroad designs that have drags and tie rods.

Personaly I beat the hell out of mine and habe never had a problem. I knew I needed bigger and stronger that factory but wasnt going to pay those outragous prices. Sone of your name brand want close to $1k for a tie rod and drag combo. I bought a Rough Stuff and made my drag link and was out $300.

While pure logic, the reality is that people prefer to pay twice as much as they need to. My favorite example is the RK Pro tie rod that is $530. It is two rod ends and a piece of 7075 aluminum. They sell the rod ends for $200. You can buy the 7075 bar already machined for around $120. Just requires that you screw the ends into it (you know, like the complicated procedure for screwing in a light bulb). So, would you pay $320 or $530? You'd think the answer is obvious, yet everyone pays the $530. I like this example because there is no DIY fabrication. I get that some people don't want to (or can't) weld their own parts together.

Although, places like WFO Concepts will thread the DOM thereby avoiding weld in bungs, OR they will send the bungs welded in. My custom drag link from WFO (threads machined in and one ton drag link ends) was $150. $15 and they reamed my pitman arm too.

I think the reality is that the JK world is unaware of the massive offroad industry that has been around for decades. You say names like Ruff Stuff, WFO, Branik, Ballistic, Blue Torch, etc., and they look at you like you're crazy. Oh man, and the same with driveshafts! :thumbsup:

The amount of money one can save in the long run by purchasing a welder and learning how to use it....

Would this be the one? I was going to take mine in next month for the Synergy bar and Dynatrac Ball Joints. My Ball Joints are shot after 6k miles and I wanted to put in the strongest part. I am mechanically inept so I don't do my own work?


Jeep JK Heavy Duty Tie Rod
WFO TR-JK-KIT ea $179.99 Qty
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One of the weakest links on the very capable Jeep JK is the tie rod. This replacement helps alleviate concerns when wheeling in an area with a lot of rocks.

Our bar is made out of 1.375" OD x .313" wall DOM tubing which allows you to run your stock steering stabilizer bracket. We thread the tubing, mill in wrench flats for easy adjustment, and mark the end that has the left hand threads.

This kit comes with threaded DOM tubing, Left and Right greaseable offset tie rod ends and jam nuts. You can adjust the bar while on the vehicle!

This set up will clear most aftermarket heavy duty differential covers.

Ships Raw Steel so you can easily touch it up with spray paint.

MADE IN THE USA!



WARNING: Alignment is suggested after installing this part! WIIL NOT FIT WITH 16" RIMS or STOCK 17" RIMS!

That's the place. They'll also custom make whatever you need. Usually there is no major change in price. Call them and tell them what you need and they'll take care of you.

The prices most of these JK manufacturers charge is insane. You're being hit with a major convenience premium (or in some cases, supporting a massive marketing budget). In fairness, certain materials cost more, such as chromoly. Synergy will usually replace a worn TRE whereas with WFO, you go down to the local parts store and spend $35. Personally, I'd rather pay less and not have to deal with proprietary parts that are not easily sourced.

That all said, I'll admit that the tie rod Teraflex posted looks to be no joke based on the specs. Heat treated chromoly is the real deal and not easy to make. It has to be machined and then heat treated, so no buying heat treated raw material. The heat treating process is also very specific. Use the wrong process and the metal becomes brittle. The OD is larger than anything out there (almost) and diameter is where the strength is. Lastly, a straight tube is always stronger, so putting the offset in the ends is ideal. The ends sound cool, but we'll have to wait for real world data. What I find interesting is you never see these high end parts on legit rigs. True, some of us hardcore type people won't pay the price, but mostly I think the manufacturer doesn't want to see their products put to the test.

Ill never buy Tereflex because the lame ass videos. That guy gets on my nerves.