Tie Rod and Drag Link ---- help?
06-03-2015, 05:11 PM
#21
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Ruff stuff and off road designs are the same way. Call them and they can build you anything. I forgot about Blue Torch Fab. I have ordered amsome gussets from them before.
06-03-2015, 08:04 PM
#22
I was all set to go with ruff stuff as I don't mind welding - especially if it saves me money. Then I read quite a few reports of folks bending them and hearing using DOM isn't the best use for a tiered.
I don't know - I guess Dom is more prone to bending than chromoly? Especially if you plan on going hydro assist in the future?
I'm sure someone with more metallurgical knowledge can clarify.
I don't know - I guess Dom is more prone to bending than chromoly? Especially if you plan on going hydro assist in the future?
I'm sure someone with more metallurgical knowledge can clarify.
06-04-2015, 01:18 AM
#23
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I was all set to go with ruff stuff as I don't mind welding - especially if it saves me money. Then I read quite a few reports of folks bending them and hearing using DOM isn't the best use for a tiered. I don't know - I guess Dom is more prone to bending than chromoly? Especially if you plan on going hydro assist in the future? I'm sure someone with more metallurgical knowledge can clarify.
I wonder what material MC was using when that members Hydro bent their tie rod ?
Last edited by kjeeper10; 06-04-2015 at 01:21 AM.
06-04-2015, 07:23 PM
#25
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Flipping the drag link and raising the track bar axle mount corrects steering geometry. The ideal situation is having the TB and DL parallel or as close to parallel as possible. It helps correct flighty steering at higher lift heights.
It becomes personal preference for everyone, but at larger lifts can be seen as more "necessary". The same lifts are slightly different on every jeep and some might think they need it, while others don't. Its more for steering comfort and some correction to factory geometry.
You do have to run more bump stop, looking some up travel. I believe it's a 3" minimum, but depending on lift height, tire size, and fender clearance you could already be running that. But some people don't want to lose the up travel and the geometry is a trade off.
It becomes personal preference for everyone, but at larger lifts can be seen as more "necessary". The same lifts are slightly different on every jeep and some might think they need it, while others don't. Its more for steering comfort and some correction to factory geometry.
You do have to run more bump stop, looking some up travel. I believe it's a 3" minimum, but depending on lift height, tire size, and fender clearance you could already be running that. But some people don't want to lose the up travel and the geometry is a trade off.
06-04-2015, 09:28 PM
#26
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There's even a cheaper way from RuffStuff. Order the offset fm 1 ton rod ends and buy DOM locally. Loads cheaper that way.
I hate the stereotypical jk owner mentality, paying 4x as much as needed.
Reaming th knuckle really isn't that big of a deal.
When it comes time for new control arms I'll be building mine. I like knowing the quality of the parts in my jeep.
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I hate the stereotypical jk owner mentality, paying 4x as much as needed.
Reaming th knuckle really isn't that big of a deal.
When it comes time for new control arms I'll be building mine. I like knowing the quality of the parts in my jeep.
Sent from my iPhone using JK-Forum