I was planning on installing my Mopar 2in lift tomorrow. Today, I thought before I install the lift that it might be a good idea to get an alignment check with the stock suspension just so I could establish a baseline of where I'm currently at before the lift, that way I have some targets to shoot for after I install the lift and make adjustments to the adjustable LCA's and adjustable Track bar that I plan on installing. Currently, everything goes down the road straight. After the lift install, I had planned to take it into the shop, to have them check the alignment and adjust if necessary.

So while getting the stock alignment checked, the shop informed me that one of my inner tie-rods and drag link needed to be replaced and they recommended that I should get that repaired before installing the lift. It sounded like good advise and they provided me an estimate of $240 to replace the inner tie-rod and drag link where it also included them doing an alignment for those repairs.

Here's what my current alignment inspection showed:


Does that seem to make sense that the tie-rod would need to be replaced based on the toe is currently out of spec on the driver's side?

After I left, I got to thinking a little more about their recommendation to do tie-rod repair before doing the lift install. I'll be running stock tires/rims probably for a few months after the install. My thought was since I'm planning on bringing it into the shop for them to do an alignment after I install the lift, then wouldn't it be a better idea to install the lift, then bring it into the shop to have them do the tie-rod repair and then perform the alignment? Otherwise it seems like I'm wasting money on having them do an alignment for the tie-rod repair, only to then turn around and bring it back in to do another alignment for the lift install. Your thoughts?

 

Theres no individual toe on a JK. Its either in or out (total toe). If offset the wheel is not center.
You just need adjust the tie rod and drag link.

 

I'll inspect the tie rods to see if I can identify the problem with it. I just watched some YouTube videos, so now I know how to inspect a tie rod. However, I'm thinking it doesn't make any sense to do the tie rod fix before installing the lift. That just seems like more trips I have to make to the shop for doing 2 separate alignments where if I do the lift and then have them fix the tie rod, then they can adjust the toe and caster at the same alignment.

 

The passenger side of the tie rod is indeed clamped into place so it cannot be replaced. I believe the driver's side is adjustable.

Having had loose tie rod ends on my 2010, I replaced the entire rod with an aftermarket unit somewhere in between lifts. The tie rod sets your toe, you know that. The toe measurement may change when you put on larger tires.

I'd probably wait until after you get the lift done so you're only without the vehicle for one day.

Here are some other pieces of info and numbers to keep in mind. The long side of the drag link, in Moog, is ~$80. Center link is $18 and the short side (attaches to pitman arm) is $24. I bent the Moog drag link with 285/70-17 tires...which are what size you're headed towards, correct? The bar had an obvious outward bend and not a single scrape. I was denied warranty service on the link for off-road use. I returned the other parts I bought to repair the link and purchased an entirely new link with standard, replaceable ends.

Tie rod was a similar situation. The long end needed replacement because that end was worn out and the price of the long side, the adjusting sleeve, and the short side was astronomical. There were no take-off's to be found since they're usually not replaced until they're bent like a pretzel. I went with the RuffStuff at $180 shipped and now I've got a solid bar with replaceable ends.

Where I'm going is the $240 you'll put into the stock parts, with the alignment, is not a long-term solution for the size tire that you're moving towards. I'm at 140k miles now and intend to keep driving it til it rusts to pieces.

 

It's crimped on but with heat and a pipe wrench it's not hard to get off and the new one goes right back on. Not a bi dea

 

Thanks for the additional advise. I was considering going with a complete tie rod replacement and doing the install myself and then have the shop do the alignment. The only tie rod replacement I looked at after doing a quick search was the TF HD tie rod kit. For $750, I decided to pass. I need to look at other available alternatives because I think you're right. I'll get this fixed, then I'll be moving to 35's in the not so distant future and likely run into tie rod problems again. For now I'm more focused on getting this lift done and this tie rod problem is a bump in the road distraction that I'll need to deal with. I'm in the same camp as you. I plan on keeping this vehicle until it rusts into pieces. I'm currently at 116K miles, I bought it new, have changed the oil every 3K miles, and it is still starting/running fine and still in great shape. When the engine dies, that means its time to invest in one of those HEMI installs. By the time all the OEM parts die/break, I plan on having the Jeep that I always wanted. At least that's my current plan. It's paid off at this point, so any money I have to put into it, I try to find an upgrade and look at it as if I was buying a new Jeep and the cost of the new stuff is just my new monthly car payment.

 

That reminds me, I'll likely have to invest in some heat one of these days. For now the only thing I have in regards to heat is a propane torch, hand held heat gun, and a 90amp flux core welder which neither help me much in the heating up metal parts for removal purposes. So it's currently PB blaster and a BFH for now.

 

Yeti tie rod last tie rod you will ever buy.
- 30mm ball-joints
- e-coated AND powder coated for corrosion resistance.
- .25x1.625 Chrome-moly adjuster
- forged tie rod ends
- stupid easy to adjust toe
- now comes with a SS clamp

http://steersmarts.com/products/yeti...e-rod-assembly

 

I haven't had to do the tie rod yet, but for the drag link and trackbar I went with Synergy, and am very pleased. When my tie rod does go, I will replace it with synergy as well.

Sent from my iPhone using JK-Forum

 

That looks more in my price range I'm willing to spend. What's the Damper Bracket and do I need it? That bracket adds another $90 to the cost.