For all you folks out there that have replaced their front drive shaft with a Tom woods....

I am ordering my monday and want to make sure I have all the necessary tools and would appreciate any tips on the install.

For the impact wrench, my is rated to 340 lbs, is that enough?

I ordered 1-1/4 and 1-1/8 sockets and a 8 inch gear puller. Looking for a 1-5/16 socket. I have read that you need a thin wall variant. Does anyone know where to get the needed socket.

Anything else I need?

 

sears should have craftsmans tools

 

If you can give me the link with the page on Sears with a 1-5/16 1/2 deep socket I would appreciate it, because i can not find it.

 

Have a torque wrench, but I believe the needed value is 175 lbs. Is this correct? I think mine only goes to 160.

Guys I know where to buy tools, but i think you would find that the 1-5/16 1/2 socket is a rarity. That is why I asked where others have found it, not because I am completely oblivious to the fact that tool stores sell tools.

 

Haha, I feel your pain. When I had to locate a 35mm socket for an axle nut on another vehicle every tool store had 32 and 36mm, but 35mm was not to be found.

Anyway, I just googled .5" socket 1 5/16 and found a bunch of hits, even amazon has them.

 

Sears has the 1 5/16 socket, purchased one last night.

 

Two weeks ago I installed a Tom Woods front DS on my 09 Unlimited Rubicon. Tops 2 hour job. We were able to get the yolks off using a rubber mallet, so you may not need the puller.
The pinion angle is slightly off from the shaft, I test drove it up to 75 MPH, no vibration. I have lwr adjustable control arms, however my castor angles are left-6 degs, right-6.5 degs. These castor angles are whats recommended for a 3.5in lift, which I have. If I adjust, it will mess up the castor angles.
I talked to Tom Woods technical, and they said the pinion angle is only a problem when the shaft is under a load (in 4WD). I don't think it will be a problem 4 wheeling......

 

@Dirtman, so the silicon sealant doesnt come with the shaft, thanks, its on my list.

@bigapplephx, It appears that the hardest part of the job is removing the flange nut. What was your experience? Did you use a impact wrench and if so how many ft/lbs is it? What caster angle did tom woods recommend?

 

I have a Woods Shaft, and I hear 6 degrees for castor all the time on this forum, but feel it is too much.

I think this number comes from an earlier write up about setting castor, and though your steering will "snap to center", it makes the working angle too great, eating up the factory r-zeppa joint quickly, and causing driveline vibes that take out the transfer case with aftermarket shafts later.
You will get vibration much earlier ...for me it was 60mph... with a large castor angle. Closer to 4 degrees,, vibes were less, and came in later. You can feel when the speed makes the double cardon joint become unstable, through vibes in the pedals, or by touching the transfer case shifter.

I think it is wiser to run closer to 4 degrees, replace your balljoints if over 30k miles old, wheeled or not (a huge handling help!). If you have a lift (the higher, then more so), you will probably need a drag link flip and front track bar bracket on your axle, correcting track bar geometry to minimize bump steer..... Now your lifted JK will feel happier.

 

There is a DIY alignment writeup in the writeups area. It goes over the steps for setting the caster using a cheap angle finder. It is fairly commonly acknowledged that angle finders measure straight lines and alignment racks measure some type of an arc - so the measurements are not the same. From the few posts I have seem that mention both, the angle finder numbers are generally 1-2 deg higher than the alignment rack.

The angle finder is just a quick and easy way to set your caster and get the numbers in the ball park.