too much backspacing
I had a case of DW a while back and have gotten it down to a bad shimmy
installed the skyjacker front trackbar brace helped a lot and everything is torqued to spec, ball joints are good but I still have a bum SS. but that would just mask the shimmy. So I am wondering if running 3.5 " BS was maybe the route of this seeing that helps create more leverage for the wheels to shift L-R when I hit bumps or holes in the road? as well this only happens at the magic speed of 35-40 mph
installed the skyjacker front trackbar brace helped a lot and everything is torqued to spec, ball joints are good but I still have a bum SS. but that would just mask the shimmy. So I am wondering if running 3.5 " BS was maybe the route of this seeing that helps create more leverage for the wheels to shift L-R when I hit bumps or holes in the road? as well this only happens at the magic speed of 35-40 mph
Less offset wheels wouldn't make any difference.
Are you running Spidertrax wheel spacers or some other brand? If they are not hubcentric, that could be your problem.
If you are running wheel spacers, did you remove the lug retainer clips? If not, they need to be removed.
Rotate the tires front to back to see if that makes a difference.
Let us know your alignment specs (caster, camber, toe-in). I am betting that you have too much or too little toe-in.
Run without a steering stablizer to help you diagnose the source of the shimmy.
Are you running Spidertrax wheel spacers or some other brand? If they are not hubcentric, that could be your problem.
If you are running wheel spacers, did you remove the lug retainer clips? If not, they need to be removed.
Rotate the tires front to back to see if that makes a difference.
Let us know your alignment specs (caster, camber, toe-in). I am betting that you have too much or too little toe-in.
Run without a steering stablizer to help you diagnose the source of the shimmy.
x2, if they are not hubcentric you MUST torque the wheels as much as possible with the weight off the wheel (jacked up). Evenly and slowly. Yes its a pain, but I watch my wheel walk around every time I do it to find 'home'.
Less offset wheels wouldn't make any difference.
Are you running Spidertrax wheel spacers or some other brand? If they are not hubcentric, that could be your problem.
If you are running wheel spacers, did you remove the lug retainer clips? If not, they need to be removed.
Rotate the tires front to back to see if that makes a difference.
Let us know your alignment specs (caster, camber, toe-in). I am betting that you have too much or too little toe-in.
Run without a steering stablizer to help you diagnose the source of the shimmy.
Are you running Spidertrax wheel spacers or some other brand? If they are not hubcentric, that could be your problem.
If you are running wheel spacers, did you remove the lug retainer clips? If not, they need to be removed.
Rotate the tires front to back to see if that makes a difference.
Let us know your alignment specs (caster, camber, toe-in). I am betting that you have too much or too little toe-in.
Run without a steering stablizer to help you diagnose the source of the shimmy.
the retaining clips are off and all my wheels are torqued to 110lbs. with the SS off it just made the shimmy faster. I had an alignment done a few months back and they said that my numbers were with in spec. just wondering because I normally run my moabs with my 35 PC M/Ts with just a little bit of shimmy and right now running my toyo winter tires that are roadforced but the shimmy is more pronounced .
my caster would be an issue seeing I have 3" up front but no adj arms.
my caster would be an issue seeing I have 3" up front but no adj arms.
Sorry to highjack. But I may have to run spacers with 4.47 backspaced rims. That put at 3.25 using 1.25 spacers. I know it will stick the tires out far but will running that much cause any issues
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Ok no toe in or out is that possible my tires are unidirectional so I have good points to ensure good measuring and when I turn my wheels I have no movement in my track bar
I guess my B J are going but still ok as per spec
I guess my B J are going but still ok as per spec
I know that the TJ Spidertrax spacers are flat, not slotted, on the back side. If you run them without removing the lug clips on a TJ, you will experience wobbles, and you may cause damage.
I am pretty sure the JK spacers are the same. I know that you do need to remove the clips for use with nearly 100% of aftermarket wheels.
I could not find the Spidertrax manufacturer instructions with a quick internet search, but I did find the project-jk.com write-up that clarifies the matter:
Often, there are not clips on every lug. As a result, unless the spacers are slotted, it would be impossible to get a flat mount with a proper torque.

I am pretty sure the JK spacers are the same. I know that you do need to remove the clips for use with nearly 100% of aftermarket wheels.
I could not find the Spidertrax manufacturer instructions with a quick internet search, but I did find the project-jk.com write-up that clarifies the matter:
Often, there are not clips on every lug. As a result, unless the spacers are slotted, it would be impossible to get a flat mount with a proper torque.
http://www.spidertrax.com/s.nl;jsess...=2&category=18
If the instructions say remove I would of, heck maybe I did. I might pull one off and check.



