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track bar bracket hmm

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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 12:37 PM
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Default track bar bracket hmm

as of today i just put my order in for the RC 2.5BB the one with links and a TB reloco, and i was confused, do u really need a reloco bracket on a BB??
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 12:47 PM
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I've been running the RC 2.5 BB without a relocation bracket. The axle shift was negligible.
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 01:02 PM
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No, you don't need a Trackbar relocate bracket.

In fact, if you were to install the trackbar relocation bracket without a drop pitman arm or high steer kit you'd get BUMP STEER.

The Drag link and Trackbar should be the same angle.

If axle centering is an issue, get an adjustable trackbar; this keeps the same angle.
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 01:05 PM
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thanks alot guys
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 02:08 PM
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I've been running that lift without the TB bracket for about a year now with zero problems. The steering wheel was off center just a little bit, but only took about 5 minutes to correct. I measured after lift and the front shifted to D side about 3/8" and rear shifted to P side about 3/8" you won't even notice this, so I wouldn't even bother with the bracket.
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by planman
He means a rear trackbar bracket.

Here's the answer:

On the JK, the rear swaybar is located outside the frame rails instead of inside the frame rails like on a TJ.

Because the swaybar runs outside the frame rails, there is not very much clearance between the swaybar, swaybar links, brakelines, and tire.

Most 2.5" or taller lifts include longer swaybar links to correct the geometry created by adding the lift. Also, guys with Rubicons or other JKs with electronic front swaybar disconnect systems absolutely must run longer swaybar links in the front with a 2.5" lift or the too-short front swaybar links will invert forward when the suspension is flexed and cause damage. The method typically used in a complete 2.5" or taller lift is to include longer rear swaybar links with instructions to move the stock rears to the front swaybar.

Additionally, too short swaybar links mess with your suspension geometry, cornering, and limits suspension articulation/flex.

When you lift the suspension 2.5", the axle does shift to one side and decreases the clearance between the swaybar, swaybar link, frame, and brakelines.

The stock swaybar links are attached with studs instead of through bolts because of the minimal stock clearance. Whereas, most aftermarket swaybar links use bolts. The bolts decrease clearance even more.

So, if you want to adjust the swaybar geometry for improved handling and cornering, and if you want improved offroad performance, you will buy longer rear swaybar links to supplement your 2.5" lift.

If you run longer rear swaybar links, the suspension articulation will increase to the point that the clearance between the tire/frame/swaybar/swaybar link/brakeline becomes a problem unless you re-center your axle with a relocation bracket or an adjustable trackbar.

Also, if your suspension is allowed to flex more, then you will need rear brakeline relocation brackets or longer rear brakelines.

There is more clearance in the design of the suspension up front. So, an adjustable trackbar or a relocation bracket in conjunction with a drop pitman arm is not necessary with a 2.5" lift.



So, the answer is, if you want improved handling and offroad performance, you will want longer rear swaybar links. If you install longer rear swaybar links, you will want either a trackbar relocation bracket or an adjustable rear trackbar--and you will want rear brakeline relocation brackets.


In order to target inexperienced jeepers with low price-point products, what Rough Country does with their 2.5" lift is skip longer rear swaybar links so that your flex is limited enough that they can skip longer rear brakelines or brakeline relocation brackets and so that they don't have to include a rear trackbar relocation bracket. Also, they put bumpstops in the shocks so that you won't blow your shocks from over-compression and they count on the limited flex from too short swaybar links to allow you to run larger tires without ripping up your fender flares--instead of just including extended bumpstops.


Alternatively, Teraflex upgraded their 2.5" kits to include longer swaybar links to prevent the inevitable damage Rubicon owners would experience with too short links. Then, when they included longer rear links, they had to include a rear trackbar relocation bracket to center the axle to solve the clearance issues with the swaybar/swaybar links/tire/brakelines/frame rail. Then, with more flex that results from correct length swaybar links, they needed rear brakeline relocation brackets to effectively lengthen the brakelines with the increased flex. Then, with the increased flex, they included extended bumpstops so that users could run 35" tires without damaging their flares when the suspension is fully flexed. But, the difference is that Teraflex targets more experienced jeepers and install shops who want more complete kits with quality components at a competitive price without needing to keep returning to add missing lift components.
You really must be mislead by the RC kit, mine included brake line brakets, trackbar bracket and longer sway bar links for the rear.......hmmmm
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 02:55 PM
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Planman, thanks for the info. When I ordered and installed my RC 2.5" bb a year ago, all they offered was the "Basic" kit with the 2.2 shocks which is what I got. My plan was to install extended rear links this year (After new wheels with less backspace so it wouldn't rub top of wheels) and since I have extended brake lines and TF QD's in front I was thinking I was good to go. But if I understand what your saying, I should just keep my stock links in rear, unless I want to relocate track bar?
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by planman
... Teraflex targets more experienced jeepers and install shops who want more complete kits with quality components at a competitive price without needing to keep returning to add missing lift components.
Thanks, Planman, for that excellent explanation. I have, in fact, the original RC BB I bought when I was new to Jeeping. Now that I'm more experienced (which isn't to say that I'm "experienced"), I have a TF 2.5" coil lift with new shocks, TF front adjustable track bar and FT rear adjustable track bar laying in the garage awaiting install. LOL: You make me feel a lot smarter about that decision (okay, give most of the credit to David at Northridge for guiding me).
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 03:08 PM
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Here's another question. Let's say I get longer links in back and a bracket or adj. trackbar to center the rear, will I need to center front also? My lift gives me 2.5" in front and 2" in rear.
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Ozzy17W
Here's another question. Let's say I get longer links in back and a bracket or adj. trackbar to center the rear, will I need to center front also? My lift gives me 2.5" in front and 2" in rear.
You don't have to. But that doesn't mean it wouldn't help. I got a rear relocation braket (The beefy one that bolts to the axle tube) and a JKS front adjustable. Down the road I plan on getting rear upper and front lower adjustable control arms to fix front caster and rear pinion angle as well. Although the rear uppers probably wont be needed on a 4dr.
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