Ok, How do I grease the front center joint. I know to use a needle fitting, but where am I shooting the grease.

 

My wife has 83k on the odometer, should I replace her front ds ujoint? And if so, what should I use? Get one from the dealer, or go aftermarket.

 

Stock shafts - there are no zerks. When the joints go bad, you replace the shaft.
Aftermaket Double Cardans - you pull the shaft off so you can actually get to the fitting, then use a needle.

 

and they try to argue the man down, eddie you nailed it when you first responded, dont worry brother i trusted you from the jump. i would almost be willing to bet... you smiled a lil, i know i sure did

 

Glad the OP figured out his problem and that maintenance goes a long way

I am not understanding something here.
WOL mentioned to use yokes. But why is this?

I have Rubicon Express driveshafts front and rear on a 4.5" lift. the frnt has a replacement yoke and the rear has a replacement flange adapter. are you suppose to be able to run a yoke on the rear also? well either way, I have now run these shafts with zero issues on and offroad for nearly 3 years over 60,000 miles. for whatever reason I never hear anything about RE driveshafts. they are 1310 and 1311 with Spicer parts

 

Can you check to see if your bearing seized too?

 

Im not arguing the man down, I am having a discussion. Maybe you should get a mind of your own.

 

I find this hard to believe, im not knocking you. No one is wanting to admit why these trasfer cases are blowing up so they just continue to make up reasons. It probably seized up after it broke apart.

 

I would like to hear your thoughts why there is "no freaking way". The transfer case is cast aluminum. The u-joints, R&P, and associated hardware are all hardened. The aftermarker DS is a hollow steel shaft that is extremely rigid. The weak point very well could be the t-case, especially if already cracked. Cracked from casting defect, vibrations, or repeated shock loads it really does not matter. I have seen cast iron differentials break also, but they are harder than cast aluminum.

I would have to physically inspect the parts before I would comment on this exact failure. I'm just saying the transfer case failure is plausible. If any part of the rotating mass locked up it would find the weakest link really quick.

Edit: It does not take much for two pieces of hardened steel to gauld and seize together. The lack of lubrication to a point like this will cause extreme binding.

 

Actually, I can understand exactly how a bad u-joint on a double card design could induce high frequency vibrations. That aluminum transfer can easily break apart when high frequency vibrations are induced.