Trimming an auto's skidplate?
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 459
Likes: 0
From: Macon, GA
Trimming an auto's skidplate?
Ok hypothetical question...... Say i install a 4"+ lift... Im concerned about driveshaft contact during full flex...if i trim the skid under the transfer case/tranny .... Will i still have to buy a thinner front drivrshaft?????
2011 JKU- sport auto
Stock susp./ tires
Body Armor tailight guards
2011 JKU- sport auto
Stock susp./ tires
Body Armor tailight guards
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 165
From: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
Skid contact will scrape and gouge the shaft below the boot. Not a huge deal, and easily remedied with cutting and/or lowering the skid.
Flexing brings the shaft over toward the corner of the tranny pan. This will rip the boot off. Not a huge deal, as long as you perform a little maintenance to keep it greased up and gunk free.
With a taller lift and longer shocks, especially disconnected, flexing brings the shaft into contact with the tranny pan, this will dent in the corner and/or split the lip. how big of a deal it is depends on how much contact.
From the lift height, the driveshaft will be at a steeper angle, and the joints will be operating in a state of 'pinch'. When they wear through, they will lose grease. When enough grease is lost, they will dry out, make noise, and finally seize. Make a habit of watching for splatter. Once they start making noise, it is past time to replace the shaft.
Flexing brings the shaft over toward the corner of the tranny pan. This will rip the boot off. Not a huge deal, as long as you perform a little maintenance to keep it greased up and gunk free.
With a taller lift and longer shocks, especially disconnected, flexing brings the shaft into contact with the tranny pan, this will dent in the corner and/or split the lip. how big of a deal it is depends on how much contact.
From the lift height, the driveshaft will be at a steeper angle, and the joints will be operating in a state of 'pinch'. When they wear through, they will lose grease. When enough grease is lost, they will dry out, make noise, and finally seize. Make a habit of watching for splatter. Once they start making noise, it is past time to replace the shaft.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 459
Likes: 0
From: Macon, GA
Ok well it looks like i bettet plan on just replacing the driveshaft before a wheeling trip. What is the average price for a front DS (thinner kind)
2011 JKU- sport auto
Stock susp./ tires
Body Armor tailight guards
2011 JKU- sport auto
Stock susp./ tires
Body Armor tailight guards
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 165
From: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
$450 ish
Contact depends on your specific setup, so you should find someplace to go flex and check clearances before running out to buy a new shaft.
When it's time to buy, do a little research before breaking out the credit card. Running a shaft with adapter plates, and using the stock yokes, moves the joints further away from the pinion/tcase output, creating steeper angles and also the possibility of more vibes. Most people think it is better to swap out the factory yokes for aftermarket flanges, which adds a bit more work. (or cost, if you don't do it yourself).
Contact depends on your specific setup, so you should find someplace to go flex and check clearances before running out to buy a new shaft.
When it's time to buy, do a little research before breaking out the credit card. Running a shaft with adapter plates, and using the stock yokes, moves the joints further away from the pinion/tcase output, creating steeper angles and also the possibility of more vibes. Most people think it is better to swap out the factory yokes for aftermarket flanges, which adds a bit more work. (or cost, if you don't do it yourself).
Last edited by nthinuf; Oct 14, 2011 at 08:41 PM.