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Truss' or sleeves?

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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 05:27 PM
  #11  
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We're u at I'm a welder ill hook you up
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 05:59 PM
  #12  
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won't a truss take away some articulation?
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 06:03 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by jeeeep
won't a truss take away some articulation?
Not even close. Nor will it restrict any up travel.

I've installed 2 now. They require a good deal of welding (about 5-6 hours if removing the axle), and you should really preload the tubes or they're warp slightly.

I would not recommend any other system out there but Artec for strength increase.

Last edited by JKred; Apr 22, 2013 at 06:16 PM.
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 06:15 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Jersey_Devil
Getting a truss and a sleeve do basically the same thing.... Strengthen ur axle.... I went with the Artec front axle truss cause of reviews and price.

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If you leave it at that, sure... But they are VERY different.

A tube will add about 66% bending strength increase. A simple box truss can add up to 4x bending strength increase and 8x torsional strength (I don't have exact figures).

Now, also consider that tube sleeves only add strength to the tube it self. A truss ties the tube to the housing, strengthening both.

I keep considering calculating accurate numbers, but.... Yeah
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 08:04 PM
  #15  
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With all that effort, why not sleeve and truss?
If you are paying for all the labor are you close to the cost of a PR-44 that you could swap in yourself?
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 08:08 PM
  #16  
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Why not just get the outside tube bombshell kit it looks pretty good
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 01:05 AM
  #17  
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I have the eVo weld in axle sleeves ,eVo C gussets , eVo lower control arm skids and the Artec truss on my Dana 30. Welding it was the easy part because the axle was out of the jeep. The sleeves only took a couple hours after you drill all the holes and. Had the truss done in about 2 hours. I was using a Millermatic.
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 02:13 AM
  #18  
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If you go with a inner sleeve you can not upgrade you axle shafts though
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 03:08 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by bbrown626
With all that effort, why not sleeve and truss?
If you are paying for all the labor are you close to the cost of a PR-44 that you could swap in yourself?
Doing both would add more strength for sure, but if you're running a D44 and ever want to run 35 spline shafts you can only use nitro sleeves. They're the only ones thin enough to clear the shafts, to my knowledge. And because of the way they're installed, add almost no torsional benefit unless you choose to weld them in.

And the going shop rate around here is about $100/hr. So axle out to axle in you're looking at $500-$600...still much cheaper than a PR if you already have a 44, and I'd say "comparable" strength.
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 03:25 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by JKred
Doing both would add more strength for sure, but if you're running a D44 and ever want to run 35 spline shafts you can only use nitro sleeves. They're the only ones thin enough to clear the shafts, to my knowledge. And because of the way they're installed, add almost no torsional benefit unless you choose to weld them in.

And the going shop rate around here is about $100/hr. So axle out to axle in you're looking at $500-$600...still much cheaper than a PR if you already have a 44, and I'd say "comparable" strength.

Sorry I keep posting the picture of your axle....I'm just still impressed at how well you built it. To me, its the perfect example of how to properly build a d44 from a Rubi to be close to a PR. Although, I think I want your help on the hydro before the truss....
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