Upgraded alternator options
Looking for ideas regarding more power
I tow a trailer and when the battery dropped below 10V I couldn't bring it back up when connected and towing (for 10 hours). Had to plug it into shore power..... So a heavy duty alternator would be welcome.... 2012 JKU
I tow a trailer and when the battery dropped below 10V I couldn't bring it back up when connected and towing (for 10 hours). Had to plug it into shore power..... So a heavy duty alternator would be welcome.... 2012 JKU
I had checked into this as part of installing a dual-battery system. Ended up not doing it and it has not been a problem for me. But, this is the company whose alternator I was considering ...
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FYI, if you do upgrade, than I'd recommend upgrading the alternator wiring harness as well. You're probably on your own to build that.
EDIT: Just another thought ... Have you considered installing a second battery and wiring the trailer to that? With a proper battery isolator, you won't have any problems keeping both batteries charged. Overland Journal's latest issue has a review on some of the different isolator options, along with explanations of the technology used and advantages/disadvantages of each.
If you're unfamiliar with the isolators, they insure that the start battery is charged before the isolator connects the batteries together to charge the aux/house battery. I monitor both of my battery voltages and it does a nice job. Typically takes a couple, three minutes for the isolator to be happy that the start battery is charged enough to tie the aux battery in. That is because in my system the bulk of the voltage demand when parked is loaded onto the aux battery only (the one exception being the fridge).
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FYI, if you do upgrade, than I'd recommend upgrading the alternator wiring harness as well. You're probably on your own to build that.
EDIT: Just another thought ... Have you considered installing a second battery and wiring the trailer to that? With a proper battery isolator, you won't have any problems keeping both batteries charged. Overland Journal's latest issue has a review on some of the different isolator options, along with explanations of the technology used and advantages/disadvantages of each.
If you're unfamiliar with the isolators, they insure that the start battery is charged before the isolator connects the batteries together to charge the aux/house battery. I monitor both of my battery voltages and it does a nice job. Typically takes a couple, three minutes for the isolator to be happy that the start battery is charged enough to tie the aux battery in. That is because in my system the bulk of the voltage demand when parked is loaded onto the aux battery only (the one exception being the fridge).
Last edited by Mark Doiron; Jul 2, 2017 at 09:38 PM.
Will the system even accept more power if you elect to spend tons of money on an upgraded alternator? I'm with Mark, dual battery. I've not felt short on power and that's with running accessories off of the auxiliary battery with a proper isolator as he mentioned.
I'm not sure what you mean by accept more power, but the alternator only puts out enough to supply the demand. As demand goes up output goes up (to the limit of the alternator's design).
Another option for a high output alternator is Mean Green Alternators.
Another option for a high output alternator is Mean Green Alternators.
I might be wrong... the TIPM acts as the voltage regulator for our jeeps. If you move from, say a 140 amp to a 200 amp alternator, you increase the amperage traveling over your wires. That may exceed the rating for the wire based on amps and length of wire??
Amperage = Wattage / Volts
So if you up the amperage you can deliver, does it really move more amps across the line? If so, you charge faster. So that's what I think happens...
The TIPM allows charging at something like 12.5volts and turns off at something like 14.5volts... I'd say you reach full charge faster... that means more amperage over the lines...
I'll say it again.. I MIGHT be all wrong on this... it's been a LONG time since I did that kind of stuff.
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The cables go to the battery and ground, easy to upgrade them.
The feed wire from the alternator has a fusible link on the battery end of it. That may have to be upgraded as well; unless you opt to go without one, which I would not recommend.
Last edited by ronjenx; Jul 3, 2017 at 05:31 AM.







