URGENT HELP - TF BB and coil spring
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 15,665
Likes: 4
From: Hammond Louisiana
And with all this advise. I did ot see a single mention of making sure the antilock wire was not stretched and damaged! Not to mention the brake line.
Now, I haved an auto unlimited rubi.On the rear I droped the axel as far as it would go. Removed the elect wire at the gromett to give it just a little more room. Using a couple of those flat wreaking bars levered the springs in. The rear was easy!
The front, same as the back with a couple of changes.
Put the bumpstop into the coil. Put the coil in position and again use the flat crow bars for leverage and gently compress spring and wiggle into position. It will take a few attempts to get angles right so things don't slip, but its not hard. Once the spring is in. Make sure the bottom coil end is positioned properly. Then, with the same flat crow bars, lever the bump stop up till it pops in place. Lube it up with a little soap and water, or I used simple green. It makes it very slippery. Oh, You probably should jack up that side of the axel a little to help in poping the bumpstop into place.
Very simple, do drive shaft removal, no skid plate dropping ect.
The Tf instructions leave a little to be desired (sorry Joe) but there is an on line JK site that gives you step by step and great pictures.
Don't forget to torque everything, and replace the rubber gromets on the anti lock stuff...
Good luck..
Now, I haved an auto unlimited rubi.On the rear I droped the axel as far as it would go. Removed the elect wire at the gromett to give it just a little more room. Using a couple of those flat wreaking bars levered the springs in. The rear was easy!
The front, same as the back with a couple of changes.
Put the bumpstop into the coil. Put the coil in position and again use the flat crow bars for leverage and gently compress spring and wiggle into position. It will take a few attempts to get angles right so things don't slip, but its not hard. Once the spring is in. Make sure the bottom coil end is positioned properly. Then, with the same flat crow bars, lever the bump stop up till it pops in place. Lube it up with a little soap and water, or I used simple green. It makes it very slippery. Oh, You probably should jack up that side of the axel a little to help in poping the bumpstop into place.
Very simple, do drive shaft removal, no skid plate dropping ect.
The Tf instructions leave a little to be desired (sorry Joe) but there is an on line JK site that gives you step by step and great pictures.
Don't forget to torque everything, and replace the rubber gromets on the anti lock stuff...
Good luck..
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 63
Likes: 2
From: Collegeville, PA
Thanks to the Fourm- Front Springs in!!
I'm back and a happy camper.
Everyone on this site is awesome. After reading for three bits of advice and then getting on the phone with Joe at Teraflex (and after a bit of dinner) I went back in the gargage and got the front springs in and front part of the job complete
Just so you know - I disconnected the brake line clamp from the frame and needed to remove the tranny skid plate. I was able to lower the axle enough and only with minor 'positioning challenges' and minor 'muscle compression with the help of a crow bar' the springs went in. Really, not so bad once I made more room to lower the axle.
Thanks again. You guys are great!!!
After breakfast I will do the rear. Any spring suggestions??
Everyone on this site is awesome. After reading for three bits of advice and then getting on the phone with Joe at Teraflex (and after a bit of dinner) I went back in the gargage and got the front springs in and front part of the job completeJust so you know - I disconnected the brake line clamp from the frame and needed to remove the tranny skid plate. I was able to lower the axle enough and only with minor 'positioning challenges' and minor 'muscle compression with the help of a crow bar' the springs went in. Really, not so bad once I made more room to lower the axle.
Thanks again. You guys are great!!!
After breakfast I will do the rear. Any spring suggestions??
JK Super Freak
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,502
Likes: 1
From: Columbia, IL
Same advice about the brake lines, abs wires, removal of the shock, you may need to disconect the axle breather tube but that sucker is pretty stretchy. I guess you are replaceing the rear sway bar links at the same time so that give you even more droop when they are off.
And really make sure you have the axle supported with a jack when you disco the shocks, you don't really want to put much stress on the ABS wires and brake lines.
Take a few pics when you are done.
Good luck
And really make sure you have the axle supported with a jack when you disco the shocks, you don't really want to put much stress on the ABS wires and brake lines.
Take a few pics when you are done.
Good luck
JK Freak
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 502
Likes: 0
From: Rio Rico, AZ
And then if you add a heavy front bumper and winch like I did you'll find that maybe now you shold have gone with the TF 2.5 coil spring lift...
I did on my rubi as I has hardly any room under my bumpstops....
Now all is well
I did on my rubi as I has hardly any room under my bumpstops....
Now all is well
JK Freak
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 502
Likes: 0
From: Rio Rico, AZ
Sorry mkjeep for mkssing post 6. I was skimming looking at this thinking I keep seeing the same problems over and over...
<aybe it would be possible to come up with a clear set of directions on these types of things and make it a stickey thread, or have a special section..
The one other thing I would like to know is why cut out theskid plate? I have been fully flexed with no rubbing..
<aybe it would be possible to come up with a clear set of directions on these types of things and make it a stickey thread, or have a special section..
The one other thing I would like to know is why cut out theskid plate? I have been fully flexed with no rubbing..