Used Spidertrax Spacers
Is there any DIS-advantage to buying the 1.5" spacers used. Especially from someone on this site. It would seem that there is no disadvantage, most everyone on this website loves the hell out of their JKs. But anything to look for in buying these used....just planning ahead and thinking about saving coin....
Also, is this simple bolt on and drive away, or is any alignment neccesary, I like things nice and simple. Thanks guy
Also, is this simple bolt on and drive away, or is any alignment neccesary, I like things nice and simple. Thanks guy
No alignement necessary. Just bolt on and you're ready to roll. Just don't forget to remove the disc retainer clips.
Spidertrax is made of heavy grade aluminum, and Tera Flex is steel. Which ever you end up buying used you should not have a problem. It's hard to damage these unless you cross thread the studs. That's pretty much, I guess.
Spidertrax is made of heavy grade aluminum, and Tera Flex is steel. Which ever you end up buying used you should not have a problem. It's hard to damage these unless you cross thread the studs. That's pretty much, I guess.
No alignement necessary. Just bolt on and you're ready to roll. Just don't forget to remove the disc retainer clips.
Spidertrax is made of heavy grade aluminum, and Tera Flex is steel. Which ever you end up buying used you should not have a problem. It's hard to damage these unless you cross thread the studs. That's pretty much, I guess.
Spidertrax is made of heavy grade aluminum, and Tera Flex is steel. Which ever you end up buying used you should not have a problem. It's hard to damage these unless you cross thread the studs. That's pretty much, I guess.
I'm sure there is a picture of these somewhere....anybody want to post a pic, or link to the disc retainer clips
each individual disc brake rotor is held in place by 2 or 3 serrated washers (clips) that grip the lug nut stud by the threads. These are used on the assembly line to keep the rotor in place until the wheels are installed down the line. Many aftermarket parts (wheels and/or spacers) are not countersunk to acommidate the width of these clips. Bolting on wheels or spacers without removing these clips will result in runout, vibration and alignment issues. Take a flattip screwdriver and twist the clip away from the stud base, then take wirecutters and cut and remove the clips. Now your wheels and spacers will run true and smooth....

Thanks for the expanation of the clips Tinman. I saw a lift write-up in a magazine recently and they said while the wheel was off to remove the clips. They didn't say why, but I couldn't understand why you would just remove something that was put on at the factory and not replace it with something else.
The more ya know...
The more ya know...
BAT- your spacers could very well be countersunk on the back to clear these washers/clips, that's why you don't have any problems...... Guys that don't have a clear picture of what I mean by countersunk look at the back of your stock aluminum wheel- it will be instantly clear!
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I just made a power point presentation on the installation of spidertrax wheel spacers. Shoot me a pm and I will try and email it to you. I will also try and put some of the pictures on my-project JK.
the backside of the spacers i got the other day had countersunk areas for the rotor retainers to fit into.. i removed the retainers on the 2 rear wheels then realized it wasnt necessary...
since then i have driven about 500 miles, checked the torque on them twice and had no issues.
the jeep feels the same as before they were installed, well there seems to be more stability in the ride now, but i guess i effectively widened the track 3 inches by adding those spacers.
since then i have driven about 500 miles, checked the torque on them twice and had no issues.
the jeep feels the same as before they were installed, well there seems to be more stability in the ride now, but i guess i effectively widened the track 3 inches by adding those spacers.


