Originally Posted by adaycj

Read the quote, and look at the huge post of specs. See how the bore size (and a few other critical #s) are exactly the same. Now notice the stroke. The 4.0l Nitro engine is dimensionally a stroker as compared to the 3.8l. I have no idea if these engines are really the same at all, but it seems obvious to me that the one with nearly 60 more hp has a longer stroke and shares many other features.

As far as a statement, that post says volumes more than the allegedly "cold air" intake (CAI) and exhaust claims that continually come up. There seems to be no proof at all that these things can produce even a single digit increase in power. From what I can find 20 or 30 HP is a pipe dream.

Originally Posted by dpoelstra

First, remember that these engines seem to wake up after 3 or 5 thousand miles.

Originally Posted by itsokitsgot4wd

Your best bet would be to tear the motor down, completely. Knife edge the crank, run a forged rod and have some high domed forged pistons made by Wiseco, while your in theres maybe go .030 or .040 over, and modify the oil galleries and install piston squirters to keep the domes cool. Then port and polish the head, along wiht the combustion chamber, maybe run larger valves and do a port match on the bowls. Then add a hand fabricated manifold with two injectors per runner and a NOS wet manifold system, run a larger TB, and cap off the system with a ATI procharger and a liquid to air intercooler and a meaty VTA BOV. Balance and blueprint the whole assembly. Run a lightweight flywheel and a triple disc carbon clutch, also ditch the OEM engine management and drop in either a Motec or some tpe of stand alone engine mgmt system that you can run custom maps and can feather the NOS and boost along with staging the injectors through the revs range, Oh forgot to mention , do a wicked cam grind from Piper or Crane. Then beef up the trans by modifying the synchro bands and run steel inserts, and change the helical gears to straight cut rock crushers, or better yet, contact Ricardo and have them spec you out a 6 spd sequential box which will require a different shift assy in the cabin, or if your an auto guy, drop in a T-400 with a high stall torqu converter.
This should get you into the 500hp neighborhood and should be plenty

Originally Posted by itsokitsgot4wd

Your best bet would be to tear the motor down, completely. Knife edge the crank, run a forged rod and have some high domed forged pistons made by Wiseco, while your in theres maybe go .030 or .040 over, and modify the oil galleries and install piston squirters to keep the domes cool. Then port and polish the head, along wiht the combustion chamber, maybe run larger valves and do a port match on the bowls. Then add a hand fabricated manifold with two injectors per runner and a NOS wet manifold system, run a larger TB, and cap off the system with a ATI procharger and a liquid to air intercooler and a meaty VTA BOV. Balance and blueprint the whole assembly. Run a lightweight flywheel and a triple disc carbon clutch, also ditch the OEM engine management and drop in either a Motec or some tpe of stand alone engine mgmt system that you can run custom maps and can feather the NOS and boost along with staging the injectors through the revs range, Oh forgot to mention , do a wicked cam grind from Piper or Crane. Then beef up the trans by modifying the synchro bands and run steel inserts, and change the helical gears to straight cut rock crushers, or better yet, contact Ricardo and have them spec you out a 6 spd sequential box which will require a different shift assy in the cabin, or if your an auto guy, drop in a T-400 with a high stall torqu converter.
This should get you into the 500hp neighborhood and should be plenty

Originally Posted by brian_crystal

I am not afraid to say that I have very little idea what all this means and...it scares me.