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Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

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WARNING to LubeLocker users!

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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 06:19 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by bostonMA
I will put in another plug for the wrist torque. Used a 7" Allen and got the hex bolts snug the first time through. I then went over them and got them as tight as possible without using my bodyweight for leverage. I figure this puts me around 25 ft-lbs.
Guessing might get you by in certain situations, but your tool chest isn't complete without a torque wrench.
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 06:47 AM
  #32  
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Did the same exact thing when installing mine. Popped the head off of one of the supplied bolts on the front. As I was tightening it seemed l hit a point where it wasn't going any tighter and sure enough I was twisting the head of the bolt off. I pulled one from the rear and used a lower setting 25-30 and it was fine. Was also carefull not to do the rest at 35. Haven't had any leaks so that setting must have been fine. Went out and bought new bolts for the rear so I wouldn't have that issue again plus I was one short.
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 09:04 AM
  #33  
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I e-mailed Solid about this and I was told that the hardware was Grade 8 and that he didn't see any problems as long as the proper torque specs are met.
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 09:14 AM
  #34  
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Guessing might get you by in certain situations, but your tool chest isn't complete without a torque wrench.

This is 100% true for 99% of the time. does that even make sense.

What we are tlking about is a Diff cover really shouldnt need to put a torque wrench on it. Common sense will do a lot here get them snug and you are fine.

David
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 10:32 AM
  #35  
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Yet another LL user here......while tightening the bolts according to the instructions I could tell that 35lbs would be too much. Mine have been at 25lbs for over a year now and are working perfectly. basically I only used the instructions for the tightening pattern.
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 10:37 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by RocksHurt
I e-mailed Solid about this and I was told that the hardware was Grade 8 and that he didn't see any problems as long as the proper torque specs are met.
Then SOLID doesn't know what they're talking about.

Stainless steel cannot be hardened by heat treating. In most cases, stainless bolts are a bit stronger than a Grade 2 (what you find in the hardware store) and you cannot find a stainless fastener that is stronger than about Grade 5 equivalent. Stainless bolts aren't classified by Grade anyway, furthering my suspicion the SOLID rep you chatted with is terribly uniformed.

Don't kill the messenger, I know, but these are the facts.
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 10:46 AM
  #37  
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I will call Lubelocker and let them know.

David
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 07:14 AM
  #38  
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Great information on this thread, again you saved me problems, as I was soon to do LL and upgrade my diff's.

Thanks to 'ALL' that supplied input to this, very valuable, thread.
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 03:12 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Under Dawg

Some forum members may chime in saying they followed LL's instructions and experienced no problems or fractured bolts. That's entirely plausible, after all, I had 18 of 20 go in and seat @35 pounds. That's not the point. I still had two fail, one being a very hard Grade-8.
I used the lube locker with the factory diff cover. I have to admit I often (probably too often for some folks taste) torque by "feel". I did use a 3/8" torque wrench when tightening the cover bolts with the lube locker installed. I followed the instructions and torqued in two rounds. And on the second round, could not bring myself to go all the way to 35 pounds. My wrench setting and intent was to go to 35 based on the instructions, but it contradicted my "feel meter". I ended up reducing the setting to 30 lbs for the remaining bolts (which felt on the border of being excessive but that is typically what I do when I go by "feel"). Would I have experienced problems if I took all bolts to 35? I don't know. On my next change, I might set for 25 and re-torque after some time. If there is no leaks or loosening then to me 25 is adequate.
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 04:23 PM
  #40  
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So glad I saw this as I tend to follow instructions pretty much to the letter. Plan on getting ARB's next year using LL's and god forbid I snap a bolt and have to commence with the drilling /easy out bull shit!! Thanks guy's
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